Master class on sewing a women's shirt. We sew a shirt or blouse from A to Z Pattern of a long shirt

The idea to start sewing men's clothing sometimes frightens even experienced needlewomen who have already got their hands on the manufacture of women's and children's products. And the seams are not the same, and the slats and collars are processed differently - it can be difficult to abandon the usual techniques. But if you want to please your loved one - why not try? Moreover, in fact, everything turns out to be not so difficult. In addition, some of the fair sex try to have masculine-style items in their wardrobe, so new tricks will not be superfluous. How to sew a shirt will be discussed in our article.

Types of shirts

Before sewing a women's shirt, it will be very useful for beginners to deal with men's sewing. Men's shirts are divided into two types:

• summer;
• tie shirts.

A summer shirt has an open collar, while a shirt has it on a stand - this is a more complex option. It's better to start with summer. She also has the advantage that such a product can be sewn from bright and even colorful fabric so that the mistakes inevitable at the first stage do not spoil the overall look. In addition, a summer shirt can also be assembled with a regular seam, with open sections processed with an overlock. But if you want to make a branded product, you need to immediately master the sewing seam.

Trying the seam

This option for connecting parts is also called a linen seam, since it is used for the manufacture of duvet covers, pillowcases and other similar products. To sew a shirt, you need to be confident enough to own this, in fact, a fairly ordinary technology.

The main version of the sewing seam is performed in several stages:

1. Cut 2 identical pieces.
2. Determine which side the allowance will be ironed on - this part should be on top when applied.
3. Fold the blanks so that the cut of the lower part protrudes 2-5 mm.
4. Bend the allowance of the bottom piece to the top.
5. Sweep and stitch the pieces.
6. Spread the workpiece in one layer with the right side up.
7. Iron the allowance on the side of the part that was on top.
8. Iron the seam on the front side.
9. Sew the seam allowance 1 mm from the fold - it is better to use a seam with a bartack.
10. Iron the seam on both sides.

Important! All the details of a classic men's shirt are stitched in this way. But nothing prevents the use of this connection method when sewing summer shirts - both men's and women's.

Preparation

Knowing the main seam, you can quickly find a way to sew a men's shirt - the master class will not take so much time. The question immediately arises, where to get the pattern:

• It is best to order it in the studio, because everything will be done strictly according to the standards. It will come in handy more than once if you are going to sheathe your lover further.
• But not everyone has such an opportunity, but building a pattern on your own is a rather painstaking task (although the process is described in great detail in old sewing publications).
• The most popular options are to translate from a fashion magazine or download on the Internet, fortunately, many fashion houses have their own websites and regularly post patterns along with manufacturing instructions.
• The traditional home option, when an unnecessary but suitable product is torn apart, is not very suitable here - there is a lot of fuss with sewing seams. But, if there is no other way, then this one can be used. The main thing is not to cut the seams, but to carefully rip them apart. It is better to iron the allowances, rather than cut them off, so that if necessary, the pattern can be corrected.

Choosing a fabric

Shirts are most often sewn from shirt fabric. The summer version can also be made from ordinary chintz or satin. Adhesive calico is usually used to strengthen the collar. In all cases, it must be taken into account that this product is washed quite often, so the fabric should not shrink.

To avoid trouble, the material must be decoded:

1. Soak the cut in warm water.
2. Gently wring it out, but do not twist it
3. Let it dry a bit to keep it moist.
4. Lay it out on a horizontal surface with the wrong side up.
5. Dry with an iron.
6. Do the same procedure with coarse calico.

Important! The fabric should not be folded in half - this way it is very easy to iron the fold, and then it will be very difficult to smooth it out.

cutting

If you took a pattern from a magazine, it indicates how the details should be cut:

• along the shared thread;
• along the transverse;
• obliquely.

Arrows are usually placed on the drawings, which must be translated into patterns. If for some reason the arrows are missing, follow a few common principles:

1. The main details - a shelf, a back, a sleeve - are cut along the share.
2. The yoke, riser and cuffs are located transversely.
3. When cutting, a monophonic fabric is folded along, the edges are combined.

Important! In magazines and on specialized sites, halves of the drawings of racks, yokes and cuffs are usually given. This is not very convenient. It is much better to cut them out of paper entirely, and then transfer them to fabric. But if the cut is large enough, you can cut it in half, aligning the middle cuts with the fold of the fabric.

Transfer the patterns to the fabric (if you have a plain shirt fabric, it is better to use a special aqua marker for this purpose, which is easily washed off) and make allowances of 1.5 cm in all sections. Small details are cut with an allowance of 1 cm. These fragments include:

• collar;
• rack;
• pockets;
• cuffs;
• facing cuts of sleeves;
• planks.

Important! If the fabric is striped, the cut should be folded so that the edges of the strips match, not the edges.

Strengthening the details

It will be much easier to assemble the product if you prepare all the details in advance. You should start by strengthening the collar. Adhesive calico can have different stiffness - soft calico is taken for summer shirts, harder for office shirts, and if you need a collar for a tie, the toughest calico is glued in two layers.

The collar for an office shirt requires special attention, because the layers in it are different. One gasket has an allowance, the other does not. Therefore, we do this:

1. We glue a detail with an allowance on the upper collar.
2. We glue the second layer on top of the first, this workpiece does not have an allowance. The pad is ironed so that it does not come off after several washes.

In principle, the second layer does not have to be glued to the entire part. You can only strengthen the corners in this way if the calico is thick enough.

Important! There is another way - special plastic bones inserted into the drawstrings.

plank

There are two types of slats on shirts:

• double;
• male.

Double plank

Its width is 2-4 cm, depending on the style. No allowance is left along the edge.

Option 1:

1. Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf.
2. Stitch it at a distance of 1 mm from the fold.

Option 2:

1. As in the first case, iron the bar twice on the wrong side.
2. Mark places for buttons and loops.
3. When the product is ready and the buttons are sewn into place, the bar will fix itself.

Men's plank

It differs from the double one in that it is done only on the left shelf - where the loops are located. On the other side is the usual double, buttons are sewn on it. The width is 3-4 cm, plus 1 cm for processing:

1. Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf.
2. At a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold, make a line.
3. Unscrew the bar so that the cut is in the fold.
4. Iron on.
5. Lay the second line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold.

Assembly of the main parts

It's time to do the shelf. In a classic men's pattern, it consists of two parts - the actual shelves and the barrel. Select the seam you will use to sew the pieces to sew the shirt:

1. Sew the barrel to the part of the shelf - you need to do this from the side of the barrel.
2. Sew the yoke to the shelf and back - when folding the parts (as in the description of the seam), the yoke will be from below.

double coquette

In classic men's shirts, the coquette is often made double. In this case, no allowances are visible. What's the matter?

1. Pin the front and back pieces onto one of the yoke pieces.
2. Roll up the shelves and back with a rudder and roll it onto a yoke.
3. Lay the second part of the yoke face down on this entire design.
4. Stitch both details of the coquettes, capturing the main blanks as well.
5. Trim the allowances so that no more than 5 mm remain.
6. Pull out the main parts through the neck.
7. Iron the seams.

The most important task is completed, it remains only to delay the coquettes along the seams, as well as sew the neck sections.

One of the main technological differences in the manufacture of men's and women's shirts is the order in which the details are ground:

• When sewing a women's shirt, the shoulder and side seams are first connected, and only then the sleeve is sewn in.
• In menswear, the opposite is true, the sleeve must be planted in the armhole before the side seams and even the seam of the sleeve itself are completed. To do this, you will need a certain number of pins - it is more convenient to stick the part in, and not to sweep it in.

Here is the standard order:

1. Fasten the sleeve in the armhole - do not forget about the marks on the collar.
2. Sew the part - this should be done from the side of the sleeve.
3. If the seam is regular, the allowance is ironed on the armhole, and then a line is laid along the armhole.
4. Sew with one line the side seams of the front and back and the seam of the sleeve itself.

Important! If you used a regular seam, overcast the seam allowances together and then press them to the side of the back.

Sleeves

Sleeve placket

The appearance of the product largely depends on how well the various small parts are processed. Particularly the sleeve trims. There are several options, but the most popular is the following:

1. Mark a 12-14 cm incision - it should be at the back.
2. Cut out the bar, which should be 16-18 cm long and 7 cm wide.
3. Sew it along the slit on the side where the distance from the seam to the slit is greater.
4. Make a cut so that about one and a half centimeters or even a little less remain to the edge of the line.
5. At the end of the cut, cut a triangle towards the end of the stitch.
6. Iron the allowance that goes along the bar onto it.
7. Turn the free edge of the cut twice 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.
8. Iron the triangle up.
9. Iron the bar itself into the cut, and then fold it in half lengthwise and iron it too so that the fold covers the seam with which the part was sewn.

Important! As for the upper edge of the bar, it is folded into a corner and adjusted to the sleeve.

cuffs

Glue the outer part of the cuff with coarse calico to almost finish sewing the men's shirt (there should be an allowance on the lining):

1. Iron the bottom cut to the wrong side.
2. Attach the allowance.
3. Place both cuff pieces together right sides together.
4. Sew them.
5. Cut the allowances to 0.5 cm, in the corners - obliquely.
6. Turn out the cuff.
7. Iron her.
8. Lay the folds along the bottom of the sleeve - the folds should be located on the side of the cut.
9. Place the cuff so that its reinforced part is on the front side.
10. Attach.
11. Iron the allowances towards the cuff.
12. Mask the seam from the front side by bending the reinforced part of the cuff so that it covers the line.
13. Sew the cuff to the edge, then topstitch.

Collar

One of the main details of a men's shirt - and women's, by the way, too. It's already prepared for you. Then proceed like this:

1. Cut the lower part (on which there is no coarse calico) along the upper and side cuts.
2. Mark the midpoints of both collar pieces.
3. Align the details.
4. Fold them right sides to each other, chip or sweep, aligning all the cuts.
5. Stitch the details from the bottom side, making cross stitches in the corners.
6. Trim the corner allowances 1mm from the seam.
7. Trim straight seam allowances to 0.5 cm from the seam.
8. Iron the allowance on the lower collar.
9. Turn out the part.
10. Straighten the corners.
11. Iron so that the edge of the top collar overlaps slightly with the bottom one.
12. Sew the bottom edges
13. Fold the collar in half.
14. Check the corners and trim the bottom cut.
15. Sew the collar, paying special attention to the corners (it is better to lay the auxiliary thread there).

Rack

In any case, the stand should be somewhat stiffer than the collar. At the same time, the part that will be in contact with the neck is glued together with allowances, and the outer part is strictly according to the pattern:

1. Iron the allowances of the inner part of the allowances from the side of the neck to the wrong side.
2. Lay a line along the bottom edge, grabbing and cut the allowance.
3. Place a collar on the outer stand so that the glued side of it is on top.
4. Align the parts and stitch along the top of the racks, and trim the allowances.
5. Unscrew the stand.
6. Iron.
7. Mark the sewing line along the fold of the outer rack.
8. Sweep and stitch the collar, iron the allowance towards the stand.
9. Baste the stand so that the hem lies on the line.
10. As with all small details, sew along the edge.

Bottom

Well, almost everything is ready, it remains to process the bottom:

1. Fold the seam allowance on the wrong side by 0.7 cm.
2. Iron.
3. Bend the allowance again to the same distance.
4. Sew it at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold.

It remains to make loops and sew on buttons.

Women's shirt

Having once tried to sew a men's shirt, you will very easily find the answer to the question of how to sew a women's shirt. Yes, almost the same, only the fastener is made on the other side, that is, the bar with loops will be on the right shelf. In this case, you can safely use ordinary seams. There are many options for processing the bottom - it can, for example, be made curly. As for small details, they need to be strengthened in the same way so that they keep their shape better. All paired details are strengthened:

• rack;
• collar;
• cuffs.

As for the sequence in which it is most convenient to sew a women's shirt with your own hands, it will be as follows:

1. Treat all slats in the same way as for a men's shirt.
2. Sweep the product for the first fitting, if necessary - lay a fold along the back, while it is not necessary to assemble the yoke, you can limit yourself to one detail.
3. Sew a yoke and connect it to the front and back.
4. Attach sleeves.
5. Process the collar in the way already described.
6. Sew on the collar.
7. Process the bottom, sew on the buttons and make loops.

No pattern

Is it possible to sew a long-sleeve shirt with your own hands without a pattern quickly? Nothing is impossible! Only it will not be a classic shirt - rather, something in the folk style, because shirts used to be sewn without any patterns. It will turn out to be one-piece, and as a collar, you can make a low stand. Although nothing prevents you from combining different types of cut - for example, to make a shelf, back and sleeves in the form of rectangles, but sew on classic cuffs and a classic collar. Of course, it will be a women's shirt, and a very interesting style.

Thus, sewing even a classic shirt is not so difficult, the main thing is to follow the technology and perform all operations patiently and accurately. As for non-traditional models, modern fashion is so democratic that any novice needlewoman can come up with something interesting, including the representatives of the stronger sex.

A shirt is an indispensable item in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the style and material from which the shirt is made, it can be strict, businesslike, creative, smart…

Let's build a pattern - the basis of a women's shirt in a men's style according to individual measurements, on the basis of which you can easily model various styles in the future, and we will build a detail of a button fastener in the center of the shelf. This clasp is found in many shirts.

measurements

Neck half circumference (Ssh) = 17.3;

Semicircumference of the chest of the second (CrII) = 44;

Semicircumference of the chest third (CrIII) = 42;

Half the width of the back (Ws) = 16.8;

Half the width of the first chest (WgI) = 19.1;

Waist (St) = 31.7;

Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) = 46;

Back length to waist (Dst) = 42.7;

Back length (Ds) = 40;

Front length to waist (Dpt) = 42.6;

Chest height (Bg) = 24.6;

Shoulder height oblique front (Vpkp) = 23.2;

Shoulder height oblique back (Vpks) = 42.3;

Side Height (Side) = 22;

Thigh height (Wb) = 20;

Shoulder Width (Shpl) = 12

Building a basic pattern for a women's shirt in a men's style:

Let's build a pattern-basis of a women's shirt without darts, which is ideal for owners of a small chest size. For women with large breasts, it is necessary to provide a chest side tuck on the front pattern. Let's get started:

1. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top about 7 cm, we set point A. From point A we bring down a vertical line - this is the line of the middle of the back.
2. On the vertical we set aside the segments: AT \u003d Ds \u003d 40; TB \u003d Wb \u003d 20; TG \u003d Sideways - (1.5 ÷ 2) \u003d 20; HP = (2÷3). From points T, B, G, P we draw horizontal lines to the right - these are the lines of the waist, hips, chest, armhole level.
3. From point A to the right, we set aside AP \u003d Csh / 3 + (1 ÷ 0.7) \u003d 6.4. From the point P upwards PP1 = Dst - Ds = 2.7. We connect A and P1 with a line, as in the drawing - the line of the neck of the back.
4. From point P to the right, we set aside PP3 \u003d CrII + 1 + 4 \u003d 49, where 4 is an increase in freedom of fitting for shirt-type blouses, based on 2 cm to the side seam of the front and back, so the total increase in chest girth will be 8 cm. From P3 we draw a vertical line - the line of the middle of the shelf. At its intersection with horizontal lines, we mark the points G3, T3, B3.

1. On the level line of the armhole, we mark PP1 \u003d Ws \u003d 16.8; P3P2 \u003d ShgI \u003d 19.1. We draw vertically upwards. We divide the segment P1P2 in half, mark the point P4, draw a vertical down.
2. From point P1 we draw an arc with a radius of P1Pl = Shpl +1 to a tuck +1 on a lowered sleeve = 14 and an arc with a radius of TPL = Vpks = 42.3. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl - shoulder point of the back.
3. We build a shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades: on P1Pl we mark P1P2 = 4. From the point P2 we lay down P2P3 = (8 ÷ 9); right Р2Р4 = 1; on P3P4 we postpone P3P5 = P2P3, connect the points P5 and Pl.

1. On the line of the middle of the shelf we mark Т3В = Dpt = 42.6. From point B to the left we set aside BB1 ​​\u003d AR - 1 \u003d 5.4. From point B we put aside BB2 \u003d AR \u003d 6.4 down. We build an arc B1B2 - the line of the neck of the shelf.
2. On the line of the middle of the shelf, we mark VC \u003d Bg \u003d 24.6. From the point C to the left, we set aside CC1 \u003d Cg \u003d 9.3.
3. From point B1 we draw an arc with a radius of V1Pl1 = Shpl +1 to a lowered sleeve = 13 and an arc with a radius of Ts1Pl1 = Vpkp = 23.2. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl1 - the shoulder point of the shelf. We connect points B1 and Pl1.

1. From P1 we set aside 7 cm upwards. BY THE LECAL, you can use it, we build the line of the armhole of the back Pl-7-P4, as shown in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the back. Point 7 is a guide, if it is not possible to draw a curved line through it without a break, then draw it next to it. We set aside 5 cm from P2 upwards. We build the line of the armhole of the shelf Pl1-5-P4, as in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the shelf and more “curved” to the point P4 than the armhole line of the back. This is necessary for the freedom of movement of the hands in the horizontal plane. Point 5 is also a guide, if you can’t draw a curved line through it without a break, then step back.
2. Check the width of the shirt at the hips. BB3 \u003d 49. Sat \u003d 46. Thus, the increase in hip circumference will be (49-46) * 2 \u003d 6. For a basic pattern, such an increase in freedom of fitting around the hips is enough for me. If you get a lower value, then you need to add the necessary centimeters along the hip line and adjust the side lines.

The base of the shirt bodice is built (drawing 5), on its basis, you can easily model various styles and make structural and decorative elements.

In the models of many shirts, there is a button closure in the center of the shelf, let's consider its modeling.

Button fastening design:

The button fastener, as in the photo, consists of two one-piece (cut out in one piece with a shelf) strips, on one of which (for women's shirts, the left one, if the shirt is worn on a person), buttons are sewn on, and loops are punched on the other (respectively, the right one).

A slat pattern 3 cm wide, in this case, the distance from the middle of the shelf (button line) to the edge will be 1.5 cm, is constructed as follows:

1. We build an approach to the clasp: stepping back from the line of the middle of the shelf to the right 1.5 cm, we draw a parallel vertical line - this is the line of the edge of the clasp. It is very important to correctly draw the neckline so that the finished buttoned gate looks perfect. For this, the B2B4 arc must be a mirror twin of the B2B3 arc.
2. We build a hem inward: stepping back from the line of the edge of the fastener to the right 3 cm, we draw a parallel line. And here it is important to draw the line of the neck. The B4B5 arc should be the mirror twin of the B3B4 arc.
3. The bottom line of the bar is also a mirror twin of the corresponding section of the bottom line of the shelf. In this case, it is a straight line perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Now you have a basic pattern for a women's sleeveless shirt in a men's style with a round neck and a button closure. How to build a shirt sleeve pattern, in the article.

Sewing a shirt seems to be quite a difficult task for many. Of course, if you have not sewed anything like this before, it will be quite difficult to sew a shirt yourself. Nevertheless, there is a way out, and it is this decision that we will talk about first of all.

Pattern for pattern

How to sew a shirt? Let's say right away: it is absolutely not necessary to make a pattern yourself. Instead, you can simply reshoot the pattern from the finished item. This method has one significant advantage over ready-made patterns published in various publications. The fact is that the finished patterns do not take into account the features of the figure at all, so those who do not know how to customize the thing for themselves have to put up with some inconvenience. If we remove the pattern from the finished thing, then here you can adjust all the parameters right in the course of removing the pattern. So, the first thing we need is a pattern for the pattern. It can be either a women's shirt or blouse, or a men's shirt. Now let's talk about how to properly reshoot the pattern from the sample.

Women's shirt - pattern

STEP 9. SLEEVES

Make a cutting plank. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (2 cm in finished form).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the incision. The top of the bar can be made as a corner or straight.

Allowances in the corners cut and cut to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch on the allowance.

Here's what happened.

STEP 10. SEWING THE SLEEVE

On the front side sleeves sweep the allowances of the okat to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Press seam allowances into armholes, pin and baste.

Sew the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the allowance fold.

View of the stitched-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

STEP 11. SIDE SEAMS

Fold the allowances of the side seam and the seam of the sleeve so that one allowance protrudes 6-7 mm behind the other, chop them off and sew 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you have to trim one allowance. The first way is easier and faster.

Iron the protruding allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the details of the shelf and back, iron the allowances, then pin them on the seam and stitch on the details of the sleeve and shelf.

On the front side, a seam with a stitching turned out. Back seam with two stitches.

STEP 12. PROCESSING THE CUFF

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance inside out and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Fold the cuff pieces face to face and sew them along the markings. Cut the allowances in the roundings to 1 mm, the rest - up to 5-6 mm from the line.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition band. Along the fold line of the outer part, draw a line for attaching the cuff.

Sew along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Lay the pleats at the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Insert the cuff into the sleeve from the wrong side! Stitch the cuff according to the markup. Trim the seam allowances at the ends of the cuff.

Iron the allowances into the cuff. Prick the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the sewing line.

Sew the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side the cuff has two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

STEP 13. HINGES

Punch loops along the markup, sew on buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the rack - along the rack, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

Buttons are sewn on a thread leg.

Classic blouse

Kuznetsova Nina

Since my daughter needed a blouse for casual wear and in a short time, I took size 44 as a basis

Stage 1

cutting and making changes to the pattern

When cutting, do not forget to put notches on the marks on the pattern.

On pattern shelves made changes.

I drew a new line for the plank ( red) stepping back to the left from the line of the middle of the front 1.5 cm. Cutting along this line, I got the following ....

I cut a shelf without a bar, bending the main pattern along the red line

On the back I made changes immediately on the fabric: I lengthened it down by 5 cm and rounded it on the side, I drew two tucks at the waist.

Sleeve. Having previously measured it for my daughter, the main pattern of the sleeve turned out to be short, I just added 3 cm + 1 cm seam allowance to the bottom of the sleeve when cutting on the fabric.

The photo shows it very well.

Cuff. The cuff was first cut on non-woven fabric, at the same time adding 3 cm for the fastener + 1 cm for seam allowances on all sides. Cut out. Only after that I glued the interlining with an iron on the fabric. These changes are clearly visible in the photo.

Collar And rack left unchanged. First of all, I cut on non-woven fabric, making allowances for the seam, and then glued it to the fabric and cut it out.

planochka for the front, it was first cut on non-woven fabric, at the same time I added an allowance for the seams, and added 5 cm along the bottom, because lengthened the entire blouse + 1cm seam allowance.

Cut the panels and cuffs on the fabric:

Open collar:

Collar stand. Be sure to put notches, they are very useful when sewing a collar.

Important note! Unfortunately, I missed one thing: when cutting the collar and collar, I did not measure the paper pattern of the collar around the neck of my daughter. As a result, when she sewed the collar to the shelf, it turned out that the collar was just right next to her and it was hard for her to breathe. I had to beat this failure, they did not make an eyelet and a button on the counter. After all this, I made changes to the main pattern:

1. deepened the neck of the back and shelves by approximately 0.5 cm
2. along the line of the middle of the collar and stand added 1 cm

in general, I immediately adjusted the main pattern so that everything would fit normally the next time the pattern was used.

Sewing a blouse

1 Stitch a chest tuck on the shelf. I will stitch the tuck at the waist later, after trying it on. Because I like everything to fit perfectly.

2 Sew a duplicated plank to the shelf, I ironed it along the fold line in advance and overlaid it along the edge of the pick. Turn the allowance to the middle of the front. Sew a plank along the front side. Just now bend the pick.

3 Stitch shoulder seams.

4 Stitch, combining marks, sleeves.

5. We sew a collar. In fact, I thought I would be fiddling with the collar the longest, but thanks to the accuracy of the marks on the pattern, everything came together in one go.

Sew along the corners of the collar and carefully turn it inside out.

On the rack, make a notch along the middle line.

Bend the collar in half, make a notch along the fold line.

We combine the notches in the middle of the collar and the stand.

We pierce with needles.

We draw.

We turn our work around. As a result, we get:

From the inside, we pin our collar to the neckline of the blouse, aligning the marks of the shoulder seams. We draw.

We turn the work face up and pin the other side of the rack with needles. Since this is the front side, the place where the plank should match perfectly. The rack should not look beyond the bar.

Sew the stand on the front side

The collar is ready. I did the decorative stitching at the very end.

Cuff processing

my cuff looks like in the photo:

Accordingly, I did not use fold marks on the main sleeve pattern, but made my own marks ..

stitch up the side seam.

We detach the cuffs.

Carefully unfold cuffs. Finished cuffs, already with an allowance for the fastener:

From the wrong side on the sleeve, from the side of the back, I put two marks 6 cm and 9 cm, since the width of the fastener is only 3 cm.

We put labels.

We put the cuffs into the sleeve, observing the place for the fastener.

Prick everything with needles and sew on a typewriter.

Your shirt is closer to your body. It is a basic item in a women's wardrobe. No wonder this versatile top for trousers and skirts is always included in professional uniforms. A fashionable women's shirt can be fitted or loose, of any color, with a pattern you like, completely repeat the men's cut or be its diametrical opposite. The style is limited only by the imagination of the hostess or the requirements of the dress code.

It remains only to sew a shirt with your own hands and wear it with pleasure!

Step one - choose a model and fabric

Women's shirt is much freer in the choice of model, fabrics and patterns than men's. But still, it is better to sew it from natural or mixed fabrics (a little synthetic is always added to shirting fabrics so that the product retains its appearance longer and does not wrinkle). Poplin is the best choice.

If you are going to use another fabric, then pay attention to its wrinkling, you can check this by tightly squeezing the fabric in your fist for a few seconds. If the folds are quickly straightened, then this is your option. Crepes wrinkle the least.

The pattern also matters: small elements and beautiful stitching are better visible, they look more advantageous in laconic models and on large figures. Classic or can be used not only traditionally, but also boldly combined with other prints or creatively arranged in a shirt cut.

Any silhouettes are suitable for slender ones, for a full figure it is better to choose a semi-adjacent silhouette and opaque fabrics. Just remember that satins and shiny fabrics treacherously emphasize volumes.

For office options, classic (solid or with a soft pattern) and muted tones are best suited. Silhouettes are semi-adjacent or moderately loose with a minimum amount of detail and decoration. These shirts will best fit into the wardrobe of a business lady. By the way, even for the most boring office shirt, you can sew a removable frill, tie or bow tie from the same fabric and change the image depending on the situation. Women's shirts from can be used as clothing for special occasions.

If the dress code is not a decree for you, then the field for experiments is not limited by anything!

Classic

romantic

Step two - pattern of a women's shirt

The most relevant thing is to sew a classic shirt with a semi-adjacent silhouette with a stand-up collar, a yoke on the back and long sleeves with cuffs. You will need a proven foundation for an adjacent silhouette. All modeling - transfer of the chest tuck into the side seam and modeling of the coquette by transferring the tuck into the armhole on the back.

You can find a suitable pattern in the Burda 2015-2016 Autumn-Winter magazine.

Step three - cutting and sewing

A sewing machine with a straight stitch (or elastic if the fabric is elastane), an overlock stitch (or a zigzag stitch), a good mood - that's all you need!

Be sure to wash natural fabrics before cutting, as they shrink! When buying fabrics made of cotton, silk, viscose, add 5-10 cm for an emergency. For fabrics with a pattern, another 10-15 cm will be required to be able to combine the pattern or its most successful location.

Allowances for seams and hem hem - 1.5 cm. Transfer all marks to the fabric (middle front, back, collar), mark the location of the pockets with hand stitches with contrasting threads (they are then removed).

We sew in this order:

• we duplicate the selection, we perform tucks on the shelf;
• we process the details of the pockets and sew them according to the markup to the shelf;
• we connect the yoke and the detail of the back, we perform tucks;
• we perform shoulder seams;
• duplicate and assemble collar details;
• we sew a collar or we make out a neck with a facing;
• we sew sleeves;
• we connect the lower seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the product with one seam;
• we process and sew cuffs;
• we perform the bending of the bottom of the product;
• we sweep loops, sew on buttons.

Collecting compliments!

The shirt, being exclusively a men's garment, has now become an integral part of the women's wardrobe.

Women's shirt goes well with jeans, skirts, vests, trench coats and coats

A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. She never goes out of fashion. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has a cult status.

Ideally, it repeats a men's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner fragile. They sew a women's shirt, as a rule, without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, made of cambric, good quality cotton or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from fabric in a cage, you get a cowboy shirt, from a fabric with a large floral pattern - Hawaiian.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN DETAILS OF A SHIRT?

This is a turn-down collar on the stand, a placket, a lowered armhole, sewn seams, a double yoke and sleeves with cuffs and slits, as in a men's shirt. But in a women's shirt, the straps can be narrower or wider than standard ones (for a men's shirt it is 3 cm), collars and cuffs are not so rigid, buttons can already be with two holes (it is believed that in men's shirts buttons are used with only four holes for sewing) . Also, in women's shirts, instead of stitching, there can be ordinary seams processed with an overlock and without stitching.

With my size 38, I took the pattern for a size smaller - 36 size. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It doesn’t matter which pattern to take, all shirts are generally sewn the same way.

YOU WILL NEED:

Shirt fabric - 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;

• Interlining - 30 cm;
• Buttons - 10 pcs.;
• Tailor's scissors;
• Bias trim for finishing;
• Threads and a needle for sewing;
• Tailor's pins;
• Tracing paper;
• Pencil or felt-tip pen for marking;
• Ruler.

STEP 1. PREPARATION OF A WOMEN'S SHIRT PATTERN

I had to shorten the pattern in length.

Since the bottom of the shirt is curly, I laid a transverse fold on the pattern above the bottom line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the bottom line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed for the length of the cuff.

Often a stitched bar is given in the magazine. When possible, I replace it with a one-piece, this greatly simplifies its processing.

To do this, the paper part of the plank must be glued to the part of the shelf and add one more of its width to get a double plank (a plank with two gates). The second turn of the bar replaces the adhesive pad, which, again, simplifies the work.

STEP 2. CUT

We cut out the details of the shirt with the same allowances for all sections of 1.5 cm.

IMPORTANT! PLANKS ARE CUT WITHOUT ALLOWANCES.

There are many small details in the shirt that strengthen the adhesive, so it is better to first mark the location of these details on the fabric (stands, collars and cuffs), then cut this piece of fabric and strengthen it with adhesive. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. So the work is accelerated, and the cut is more accurate.

IN A WOMEN'S SHIRT, IT IS NECESSARY TO STRENGTHEN ALL PAIR PARTS OF THE STAND, COLLAR AND CUFF TOGETHER WITH ALLOWANCES WITH A THIN GLUE.

Glue G785 is perfect for these purposes, as well as interlining H180 and their analogues. The duplicating material should be thin and plastic, unlike a man's shirt.

Then, on the glue mark all the allowances on small parts.

STEP 3. PROCESSING THE PLANKS

Planks are processed first after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not affect the fit of the product.

To do this, you need to chop off or bend a paper plank on the pattern and with an iron, without chipping off the pattern, iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the bar on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips on the shelf 1 mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aquamarker. This is required for sampling. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

DO NOT FORGET THAT ON THE PATTERNS IN THE MAGAZINE THE MARKING OF THE LOOP IS GIVEN FOR THE SMALLEST SIZE! REMEMBER THIS WHEN REMOVING THE PATTERN.

STEP 4

Lay the pleat on the back and stitch it along the allowance. This will fix her. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one detail of the coquette. The second yoke is sewn on after trying on. Try on a shirt, fit it to your figure.

STEP 5. PROCESSING COQUETS

In order to sew on the second yoke, you will have to dissolve the basting on the sides after trying on.

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back detail on the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the details of the shelves on the yoke.

Put the second yoke face down on top and chop with the bottom yoke. The twisted details of the shelves and back remain inside, between the coquettes.

Stitch details of coquettes. Trim the allowances to 5-7 mm.

Unscrew the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.

Iron the seams of the coquette. Sew them from the front of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

STEP 6. PROCESSING THE COLLAR

Collar details fold face to face, chop them off and stitch along the markings. Cut out allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances on the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transitional piping and topstitch along the edge.

On one part of the rack, cut the bottom allowance.

Trim the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply an oblique trim from a finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it on the lower cut of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the rack with inlay and iron it.

Lay a line exactly in the stitching seam of the inlay (immediately under the oblique inlay), grabbing the second cut of the inlay from the inside.

Prick a stand without trim with the face on the lower collar. Combine the cuts, the middle, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar with the pinned stand in half.

From the side of the upper collar, put the edged stand face down.

Stitch the racks, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in roundings to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Unscrew the racks, iron without transitional edge.

IMPORTANT! WE IRON OR THE COLLAR OR THE STAND SEPARATELY SO THE COLLAR DOES NOT LOSE SHAPE.

On the top stand, draw a line for attaching the collar.

STEP 7. SEWING THE COLLAR

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Prick the collar into the neck from the front of the shirt, combining the middle, ends of the collar and placket, also marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neck, laying the line exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, iron the stand allowances.

Prick the second post over the seam so as to overlap the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the oblique inlay, and on the other side into the seam for attaching the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Lay the line exactly on the edge of the inlay. Finally iron the stand.

STEP 8. PROCESSING THE FIGURED BOTTOM OF THE SHIRT

You can process the bottom of the shirt in the classic way by tucking the allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom of the shelves is much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately at the shelves and back.

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it in case of unevenness.

Fold the shelves with the back. Where the rounding of the bottom ends, make notches 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Turn around the bottom of the shelves and the backrest separately with an oblique inlay (just like the stand, you just need to tuck the second cut of the inlay). At the slats, bend the ends of the inlay inward.

STEP 9. SLEEVES

Cut the bottom of the sleeve along the markings.

Trim with a bias tape that side of the cut, which is closer to the seam of the sleeve.

Make a cutting plank. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (2 cm in finished form).

The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the incision. The top of the bar can be made as a corner or straight.

Cut out strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).

Allowances in the corners cut and cut to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch on the allowance.

Unscrew the strips, iron. Lay the finishing line along the fold of the bar to the height of the cut.

On the front side of the sleeve, put on and stitch the bar on the second side of the cut. Notch the allowance above the line.

Iron the allowance inside the bar, prick the second fold of the bar over the stitching seam.

Prick the bar over the slit and topstitch over the slit along the edge and top corner.

Here's what happened.

STEP 10. SEWING THE SLEEVE

On the front side of the sleeve, sweep the eye allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Poke the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The line must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

You will need

• - Pattern;
• - Cotton, linen or silk fabric;
• - Interlining;
• - Sewing machine;
• - Needles and threads;
• - Millimeter.

Instruction

Take measurements. You need to know the bust, neck, product length, sleeve length, shoulder length. Make a cutout. If you do not have a special template, it's okay. You probably already have the main one that you sewed on. If it is not there, do it - it will come in handy for you not only for -, but also for making many other things. Build patterns for the front, back and sleeves.

Decide whether you will be sewing a blouse a la a man's shirt or something more feminine. For the first option, it’s enough just not to take into account the undercuts at the waist. You can even omit the pecs if you want. shirt free style. For a more feminine style, model a pattern - for example, remove the undercuts and make a blouse with reliefs. You can modify the sleeve, turning it into a long or short "flashlight". Do not forget that 5-7 cm per fastener should remain on the shelves.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and lay out the details. You should get 2 parts of the shelves and sleeves, which should be symmetrical to each other. For a loose fit shirt, you will need 1 piece of the back, folded in half. Cut out the cuffs. For a classic shirt, they are rectangular, 14-20 cm wide and 26-30 cm long. Do not forget that the cuffs are made double and they need to be cut along the share. Cut out 2 stand pieces and 2 collar pieces. Don't forget about seam allowances.

Prepare the upper parts of the collar, stand and cuffs - reinforce them with interlining. Place paired parts together and align them. Fold the collar parts right sides to each other, shift the upper part relative to the lower one down by 2 mm and pin the parts with a pin in the center. Sweep and stitch details. Turn and iron the collar.

Put together the right sides of the rack parts, pin them together with pins and stitch along the side seams. Baste and stitch the collar to the stand. Then iron the seams, turn the entire structure on the front side. Sew up the stand and collar.

Fold the right sides of each of the cuffs. Sweep them, grind, iron the seams and turn them inside out. Stitch the cuffs, stepping back from the edge of 0.5 cm. You can make cuffs with both buttons and cufflinks. To make cuffs with cufflinks, cut holes for buttonholes. They can be both vertical and horizontal. Sew over the buttonholes with an overlock or manually with a buttonhole. For cuffs with buttons, make one loop at a time so that they are symmetrical.

Prepare the shelves. Bend the edges intended for the fastener and iron. Baste and stitch the shoulder grooves on the back. If you decide to leave undercuts on the chest, grind them too.

Fold 1 front piece and back piece right sides together. Baste the side and shoulder seams. Do the same with the second part of the shelf. Iron the seams. Baste and stitch the seams of the sleeves. Align the seam of each sleeve with the side seam of the shirt, batten in and sew in both sleeves.

The men's shirt has been a classic of men's fashion for many years and is a sign of good taste and elegance. The shirt looks good in both business and informal settings. Silk and wool, denim and plaid, strict striped and romantic with a frill - there are never too many shirts in a man's wardrobe.

Recently typed in the search: "to sew a men's shirt." As usual, helpful Google and Yandex offered a lot of various articles, of which I especially liked one article, or rather the line (I quote literally): "sew a shirt for a man with your own hands and you will give him not only an excellent hand-made thing, but also share your own mood." I don’t know what about a great hand-made thing, but the mood after such lines really rises.

The master class "How to sew a men's shirt" will be divided into 5 sections:

1. MK 1: ;
2. MK 2: ;
3. MK 3: ;
4. MK 4: ... And also - the final processing of a men's shirt - hemming the bottom of the product, overcasting buttonholes and sewing on buttons;
5. MK 5: .

You can make a pattern for a men's shirt like this:

1. Rip open an old men's shirt, iron the details with an iron, transfer the contours of the details to paper, cut them out and the men's shirt pattern is ready.
2. Build a pattern of a men's shirt from magazines and books.
3. Download a free pattern for a men's shirt via the Internet and print it on a printer.

Fabric consumption (plaid flannel) for a men's shirt is calculated as follows:

• with a fabric width of 1 m 50 cm = one shirt length + one sleeve length + 40 cm for cuffs, collar, pockets, etc.
• with a fabric width of 1 m 10 cm = two shirt lengths + one sleeve length + 50 cm for cuffs, collar, pockets, etc.

The flannel fabric must be decanted before cutting - rinse in hot water, dry, iron with a hot iron from the wrong side.

When cutting a men's shirt, attach all the details with pins along the shared thread on the fabric folded in half. Lay the pattern of the front of the men's shirt 1 cm from the edges, and align the middle of the back, yoke of the back, collar, collar stand with the fold of the fabric. The strips for processing the front fasteners can be cut out in one piece (as, for example, I cut out), or as separate parts in the shared, transverse or oblique directions. The length of the straps of a men's shirt is equal to the length of the fastener, and the width is 3 cm in finished form (with allowances for seams - about 5-6 cm). Pockets and flaps can be cut out in any direction, however, I cut them out along the shared thread in such a way that the rapport of the pattern on the pockets, flaps and shelves coincided.

Seam allowances - 1.2-1.5 cm on each side of the men's shirt cut detail.

From interlining or any other cushioning fabric, cut out a collar, collar stand, cuffs, valves according to the already cut out details of a men's shirt from the main fabric.

Men's shirt cut details:

1. Back - 1 piece

2. Shelf with a one-piece bar - 2 parts

3. Back yoke - 1 piece

4. Sleeve - 2 parts

5. Cuff - 2 parts

6. Collar - 2 parts

8. Invoice pocket - 2 parts

9. Pocket valve - 2 parts

10. Facing sleeves (piping) - 2 parts

Details of cut from adhesive interlining:

5. Cuff - 2 parts

6. Collar - 2 parts

7. Collar stand - 2 parts

9. Pocket valve - 2 parts

To your question why I called the article "Sewing a men's shirt is easy!", I will answer this way: I really think that sewing a men's shirt is easy. As a rule, the fabric for men's shirts is natural (or "conditionally" natural), from which it is a pleasure to sew - the sewing machine sews perfectly, it is well stitched when ironing, there are no many cut details, the seams are mostly straight and uncomplicated (stitched, turned, stitched) and much, much more in favor of the fact that you can start learning to sew with a men's shirt.