Changes in hair structure during perm. Wave or curl? Hair curling methods

home / Baby's health

In order to do a high-quality perm yourself, you first need to understand what effects the hair is exposed to during this procedure. If we look at a section of straight hair, we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair has the shape of an oval. What follows from this?

To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting along the axis. When you wind your hair with curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curl is maintained until the next hair wash.

Before perm The keratin scales of the surface layer of hair are tightly closed. But under the influence of the chemical composition, the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when wound on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The breakdown of molecular bonds should ideally reach 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous.

The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. To do this, use a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and it begins to return to its natural state: the previous connections inside the hair are restored, the keratin acquires its original strength and elasticity, and the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the perm will turn out to be fragile. During perm hair experiences physical and chemical effects simultaneously. When wound around a bobbin, the hair is stretched, in addition, each layer of hair puts pressure on the underlying one.

Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature during curling increases, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, so during the curling process an insulating cap is used that retains the natural heat of the human body.

Each subsequent curl will look less beautiful than the previous one, since chemicals destroy the keratin of the hair, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which reacts differently to the curling solution. There may come a time when your hair simply stops being curled and you will have to wait a while for it to grow back.

Hair curling tools.

If you decide to do perm at home, you will need a sufficient amount bobbins of various shapes and diameters - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts and are secured with rubber bands. Also for perm can be used at home plastic curlers, which are also secured with an elastic band or clip. Peignoir(a special cape made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes in order, and protective gloves will protect your hands and nails from aggressive solution. Among other things, you will need:

plastic comb-tail,
curling compound and fixative,
insulating cap,
bowl and sponge for fixative,
drug for neutralization and stabilization,
biological fixative.

Please note that during curling, products from the same company/brand must be used. You can buy all this in a specialized store.

Perm compositions

Almost all curling lotions are based on organothio compounds and their derivatives - they make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature. A very important characteristic of the drug is its pH value. The higher it is, the more active the effect of the drug on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin. What curling compounds are used today?

Alkaline permanent (from Latin permaneo - I remain, I continue) is used for curling healthy and natural hair. The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects in humans - headaches, malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).

Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), and a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 degrees C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the low swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the product is less stable and the curl does not last very long.

Soft alkaline permanent - a gentle solution, when used, the hair also receives a protein course of treatment, due to which the hair structure improves and the curl becomes more durable. Has no smell. Disadvantage: It often causes allergies.

Gel-like product for permanent - used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's short haircuts. To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.

Foam permanent - the most harmless preparation for hair curling. It is so soft that the result is hair with volume and virtually no frizz. As mentioned above, great importance when perm is given fasteners which have oxidizing properties. Such preparations must contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. Fixators perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, ensure stabilization of the resulting curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Fixatives can be of the following type and consistency:

concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a ratio of one to one, their packaging bears the inscription “1+1”),
non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, but it must be remembered that in this case it is the foam that “works”)
non-foam solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).

Perm stages

Ideally, it is better to do the “chemistry” in a hairdressing salon with an experienced hairdresser, but if you want to do the perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If so, then with perm You should wait until the skin heals. Perm should be performed in the following sequence:

Wash your hair with shampoo, squeeze out the moisture and dry with a towel.
Determine the method of applying the chemical to the hair.
Curl your hair into bobbins.
Soak your hair with the chemical composition.
Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
Record the start time of exposure on the clock.
Check the quality of the curl.
Rinse off the drug, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
Remove the bobbins.
Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
Rinse the fixative with running water and squeeze out the water.
Rinse your hair with an acidic solution to neutralize the fixer.
Dry your hair with a towel.
Apply a medicinal product to restore hair structure.

When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, perm better to reschedule. It is also necessary to check whether you have an allergic reaction to the drugs. It appears most quickly on the thin, delicate skin behind the ear. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab on the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).

You need to be especially careful with blonde (bleached) hair. If, after immersion in curling lotion, they do not break, but lose their original appearance, the composition must be diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio.

Choosing a curling composition

It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and make the right choice of the appropriate drug, since the degree of impact of different drugs differs from each other. First of all, we need to determine hair structure .

Let us remind you that hair can be soft, medium, or hard.

How to determine this?

If your hair feels soft and limp to the touch, then you have soft hair; if it is coarse and thick, it means it’s coarse; and if it’s neither, then you have normal hair. Then it is determined hair quality - thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and its quality are closely interrelated. If your hair is soft, it means it is thin. Blondes are more likely to have this type of hair, while brunettes are more likely to have thick, thick hair. In addition, it is very important type of previous hair treatment - dyed, bleached, with permanent residue, untreated. The fact is that the previous method of processing hair increases its porosity; it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, and hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and means of protection, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment. There are several permanent rules for damaged hair:

when curling the roots that have grown after the perm, you should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
For heavily bleached hair and a large percentage of highlighted (partially dyed) strands, hair protection products must be used to even out the structure of dyed and sectioned hair and ensure uniformity perm. Keep in mind that every company that produces formulations for perm, usually offers several types of drugs:
for healthy, previously untreated, difficult-to-treat hair,
for normal hair,
for porous hair that has previously been exposed to oxidizing agents,
for blond and highlighted hair.

Having chosen a composition, you must strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since there may be differences not only between drugs from different companies, but also between the next generation of the composition from the same company.

Hair washing

There is a rule: perm Performed only on clean hair! Therefore, before curling, you must wash them, regardless of the last time you did this. This will slightly open the scales, which will speed up the penetration of the curling composition into the hair. The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to preserve the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After drying your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of hair).

Curling hair with bobbins

Depending on the hair type, bobbins are chosen. If the hair is hard and elastic, then it is wound in thin strands on large bobbins. Medium-bodied hair is best curled with medium-sized curlers. Thin hair is wound into small bobbins, separating very thin strands. In this case, the strands must be separated with zigzag partings so that clear parting lines do not form, and the bobbins must be placed in a checkerboard pattern. It must be taken into account that the thickness and width of the strand must correspond to the thickness and length of the bobbin. The process of winding strands of hair onto a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed out, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound onto the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully twisted and do not bristle or stand out from the general mass. The direction of hair curling depends on:

on the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, the hair can be broken at the root),
from the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future),
from a haircut, which can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.

The angle of tension of the strand can be different: the higher the strand is moved relative to its base, the more magnificent it will be later. If volume at the roots is not required, then the bobbin is placed as low as possible to the base of the strand. The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or located close to the roots, so that there are no creases that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic band can be at the top of the curler or placed crosswise. You can also use hairpins to secure your hair - wooden or plastic.

Hair curling methods

Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition and then curled: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the healthiest hair grows there. To get an even curl, you need to curl your hair very quickly. They are pre-wetted in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times. Indirect method. Wet hair is rolled into curlers and then moistened with a curling solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Winding is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, since wet hair absorbs the solution faster and better retains its original structure. Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before curling, only the ends of the hair should be moistened with the composition, retreating 2/3 from the roots. In this way, the bobbins are wound around the entire head, and then all the hair is wetted. According to the way the bobbins are placed on the head, the curl is divided into horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way the hair is wound onto a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only on the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to the increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution. At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the roots of the hair to its ends - and the bobbin is located vertically on the head. The main advantage of this type of curling is that the curl is uniform along the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal heat for the curling process. One more note: if the hair has been permed several times and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer so much.

Applying the curling compound

When all the hair is twisted into bobbins, the composition is applied to each bobbin from above and below with a brush. This must be done quickly and evenly. You cannot apply a very large amount of the composition at once, since the upper layers of the hair, having absorbed too much moisture, will swell and will not allow the composition to pass into the lower layers, which will remain uncurled; in addition, the composition may begin to flow off, which is not always pleasant. The first time you need to apply the composition very sparingly. The second time you can apply a little more. And the third time it is applied until the liquid stops being absorbed. In this case, you cannot save the composition or fixative, since the hair must be soaked very well. Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline should be lubricated with a protective cream, and a napkin rolled up should be tied around the head. After impregnation of the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully placed on the head, being careful not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly secured, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.

Exposure time

The holding time is always individual, on average from 10 to 30 minutes, as it depends on the structure of the hair and the desire to have a curl of one or another elasticity. To determine it, it is necessary to untwist the strands in different parts of the head during the curling process. (It's important to remember to twist the strands back!) A sign of a good curl is a bouncy and moist curl. After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curl in the hair will increase slightly, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if exposed to the curling composition for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.

Rinse

Without removing the bobbins, you need to rinse your hair very thoroughly in the shower. Rinse time depends on hair length. So hair up to 10 cm in length is washed for at least 1 minute, 10-20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.

Fixation

Bottom line perm depends on proper fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is done superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly washing your hair and patting it with a towel, apply the fixative.

The holding time is determined according to the following table:

After applying the fixative and the required holding time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to pull back the curl. Then the fixative is applied again. After re-fixation, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.

At the final stage, a biological fixative is applied, which instantly strengthens the hair keratin, makes the hair elastic, and affects the duration of preservation. perm and elasticity of curls. After thoroughly washing your hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and apply the product evenly to it. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly washed again. After this, you can use a rinse balm, which will restore the natural acid pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.

Hair care after perm

It takes at least 48 hours for the hair keratin to strengthen. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry or blow-dry your hair during this time, or curl it with curlers. For hair care with perm there are rules:

You need to wash your hair only with special shampoos, and also use special hair balms with perm.
If the hair is very dry, you should carry out intensive treatment that will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
After every 3-4 hair washes, it is advisable to use medicinal preparations, and for long hair, a preparation for the ends of the hair is necessary, because they will become drier after curling.
In order for the “chemistry” to last as long as possible, you should not pull your hair while it is wet or twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a sparse comb, and immediately shape them with your hands. Don't go to bed with a wet head.
It is necessary to protect your hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer to protect it with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to overdry your hair or damage it with backcombing. For styling you should use a nourishing foam balm.

And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of the home hairdresser will not be in vain: with perm morning styling becomes easier, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, holds its shape better and makes it possible to try many different hairstyles.

A perm composition with a pH of 8.5–9.5 acts like an alkali on the hair. If you leave a small amount of it on your hair, it will gradually destroy it. Rinsing your hair with water will not completely remove the curling compound. Therefore, the next important hair treatment operation during perm is neutralization with a weak solution of acetic or citric acid.

As is known, alkali is characterized by an excess of OH ions in a solution. The greater their relative amount, the higher the alkali concentration, i.e., with a neutral reaction of the medium, the pH of the solution is 7 and the relative amount of hydrogen ions H+ and hydroxyl OH- is approximately the same. Some excess of one or other ions is inevitable, but in hairdressing practice there is no need to accurately determine it. An increase in the alkalinity of the solution begins with an increase in pH, i.e., when it begins to exceed 7. The perm composition is a low concentration alkali with a pH of approximately 9. Acidic solutions, which include, in particular, citric or acetic acids, characterized by a predominant amount of hydrogen ions H+. The more of them in the solution, the lower the pH of the environment, i.e., an increase in the number of hydrogen ions entails a decrease in the pH of the environment, starting from 7.

What happens in the solution during neutralization? In solutions of any liquids in which water is present, continuous decomposition and combination of its molecules occurs.

One water molecule breaks down into one hydrogen ion H+ and one hydroxyl ion OH-, which combine to form a water molecule again. If the reaction of the medium is neutral, that is, the solution contains the same amount of both ions, a continuous process of decomposition and reunification of water molecules occurs. If OH- ions predominate, some of them do not participate in the process of water formation due to the lack of the required amount of H+ ions. By adding an acid in which hydrogen ions predominate to an alkaline medium, the following picture can be observed: as the number of hydrogen ions increases, the number of hydroxyl ions will correspondingly decrease, which, when meeting each other, will form water. Thus, as soon as there is one hydrogen ion for each free hydroxyl ion, the reaction of the medium will become neutral. If there are slightly more hydrogen ions, the reaction of the medium will be slightly acidic. In hairdressing practice, due to the inability to accurately control the pH of the medium before and after neutralization, it is necessary to use compositions that approximately ensure complete neutralization of alkalis. Typically, a weakly acidic solution of acetic or citric acid is used for this.

To obtain a composition of such a weak concentration, you can take 2.5 g of citric acid and dissolve it in 1 liter of warm water. To better neutralize alkali residues on the hair, it is necessary to rinse it well with the prepared composition. Rinsing alone is not enough - the alkali remains on some areas of the hair. The operation must be repeated several times.

After neutralization, the hair is wrung out, dried with a towel and curled with curlers.

When perming hair that has been bleached and significantly loosened by hydrogen peroxide, you need to increase the amount of water in the neutralization solution to 2 liters, leaving the amount of acid 2.5 g unchanged, or, conversely, halve the content of citric acid without changing the amount of water.

Hairdressing
L.G. Gutyrya

The perm was invented by hairdresser Karl Nessler in November 1906. His first client was his wife. For hair health, permanent curling is, of course, not the most useful method, but beauty, as they say, requires sacrifice, and the number of girls turning to a beauty salon to get the desired curls is growing.

Hair perm methods

Hair perming can be divided according to the type of chemical composition that is used to treat the hair. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair using an acid and alkaline permanent wave. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms last on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid hair curling

The curling agent penetrates into the hair without exposing its outer scales. This results in a very tight curl. However, if you have thin and soft hair, this type of curling is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For those with sensitive scalps and dry, brittle hair, this type of chemical is also not suitable, it will completely destroy your hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Acid perm using thioglycolic acid is very fragile; lush curls lose their volume after just over a month. However, this is the most hair-friendly method. This perm is recommended even for recently dyed hair.

Alkaline hair curling

less persistent, lasts up to 3 months. The curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid perm, here the drugs penetrate into the hair, opening its outer scales. This procedure is gentler on the hair, but still not suitable for many hair types. If your hair is straight, coarse and heavy, it will become even less durable and will last about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid curls.

Neutral hair curl

has long been known for its softening properties and is suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, and the curl itself is relatively stable and will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino acid hair curling

contains amino acids and proteins. They nourish and heal the hair, which helps minimize the negative effects of chemicals on the hair. The curls are soft and look natural. Unfortunately, curls don't last long. This method is not suitable for coarse, heavy and long hair, because... curls will develop very quickly under the weight of its own

Hair curling "Silk wave"

The product contains silk proteins, which care for hair and do not damage the hair structure. Even bleached hair looks healthier after such “chemistry”.

Biowave hair

The composition of the biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid; they are replaced with a drug similar to the hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations not only gives your hair long-lasting curls, but also gives it an absolutely natural and healthy look. There are several bio-curls technologies, for example, “Angel Curls” or Italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese hair curl

with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more durable than silk, and the biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates hair moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is approximately the same as for the “silk wave”.

American hair curl

Ideal for medium length hair. The difference between the American perm and other types is that it uses special complex designs made from Olivia Garden curlers.

Root chemistry

An excellent solution for short hair and shoulder-length hair that lacks volume. Root chemo is also done when permed hair has grown noticeably. Root chemicals for straight hair will allow you to lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of this type of curling is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable within a month. Curling the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for thin, sparse hair, cut in steps or in a cascade. The hair becomes fuller and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

Wellaformers replaced curlers and curlers. In beauty salons, hair curling technology has recently appeared using latex bags that compress and curl the hair. This device is called a wellaformer. As a result of using this new product, you will get tons of voluminous yet soft wavy curls. When curling hair with wellaformers, it should be of medium length or slightly longer. This is due to the fact that the hair at the roots in this case remains straight.

A good hairdresser in a good salon will definitely tell you what type of curl is best for your hair. Before the procedure itself, professionals in their field will first of all conduct a strand tensile test and a reagent test on the skin. A skin test behind the ear is done to determine if you are allergic to the selected composition. After this, you will be asked to do a test on one strand with the selected drug. This is required in order to determine the concentration of the composition suitable for your hair type. If after using the drug they look dull and unhealthy, then the concentration of the drug is reduced.

In some cases, the stylist may refuse to perm your hair. For example, if they are discolored or unhealthy to the point that many of the hairs in the test strand break when pulled. The reason for refusing to perform the procedure may be ordinary henna. It clogs the hair scales and prevents the product from penetrating inside. Before applying chemicals to your hair, you will be asked to make an alcohol-oil complex to draw out the remnants of henna from your hair, but one session is not enough.

If you've recently dyed your hair, you'll need to wait a bit longer to curl your hair. It is not recommended to do chemistry during “critical days”. If you were going to cut your hair and curl it, then do the chemistry first, and then the final haircut, but not vice versa.

If the master immediately offered you a perm without preliminary testing, or the salon only practices one type of permanent hair perm, which may not suit you at all, it is better to find another master in another salon.

There are two methods of performing a perm: direct and indirect.

Direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound onto bobbins according to the classical scheme.

Winding according to the classical scheme (Fig. 1, a) begins from the lower occipital zone of the head. Then the hair of the middle and upper occipital zones is curled, then the temporolateral and, finally, the parietal. All hair is curled in the direction of its natural growth.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound onto bobbins according to any pattern (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

a - classic; b - directional; c - variable

Wetting the hair with the composition in this case is carried out in three steps:

*a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to soften it slightly;

*a medium amount of the composition is applied to the hair to thoroughly moisten it;

*carry out control wetting of hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing the perm method, you begin to wind your hair with bobbins, taking into account the following:

the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;
the thickness of the twisted strand should not be greater than the diameter of the bobbin;
The strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.
One perm requires 50g of the composition.

Put an insulating cap on the curled hair and leave the mixture on for 10 to 40 minutes. The exposure time depends on the concentration of the chemical composition and the condition of the hair. When using climazone, the exposure time is halved.

After some time, it is necessary to check the quality of the curl, for which they unwind (not completely, but only 1-2 turns) and twist back 3-4 bobbins in different zones, and also compare the diameters of the bobbin and the resulting curl. If these diameters coincide, then proceed to the next stage: the composition is washed off with hot water without unwinding the bobbins.

Then fixation is performed by laying a napkin tourniquet along the edge hairline so that the fixer does not get on the face.

Currently, two types of fixer are produced: ready-made and concentrated.

For one fixation you need 50g of fixer (3-5% concentration of hydrogen peroxide). If the fixer is ready, it is applied using a sponge or applicator to the bobbins and foamed so that a foam cap is formed. The exposure time of the composition on the hair is 10 minutes. If the fixer is concentrated, it must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio before application.

After the foam has settled, the bobbins are untwisted and the fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After this, final work is performed: neutralization with a special composition, styling, cutting, drying, etc.

Perm performed using braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in Fig. 2, a.

a - division of hair into zones;b - braided braids with ends twisted onto bobbins;c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The area of the first row of braids should be 5cm wide. The number of braids depends on the thickness of the hair; the thickness of each braid is 2-2.5 cm. The hair is braided tightly; The ends are not braided, but wound onto bobbins and secured with an elastic band.

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

In this way, the hair is processed row by row up to the top of the back of the head.

Strands of hair in the temporolateral and parietal zones are braided into thicker braids (3-3.5 cm).

After all the hair is braided and the ends of the braids are twisted onto bobbins, they are impregnated on all sides with a chemical composition and left for 15-25 minutes, depending on the condition and structure of the hair. Then the braids with bobbins are washed very thoroughly with water (t = 50...60°C) and a fixer is applied, which is kept for 10 minutes. Next, the fixer is washed off with water, the bobbins are removed, the braids are undone, and the hair is washed with water again.

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a medicinal emulsion and combed with a large-toothed comb.

Dry hair naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle turns out natural, with large curls.

This combined method of chemical perm is recommended for those who do not curl their hair with curlers.

To make hair look lush and thick, as well as to make it easier to style, the root method of perm is used (Fig. 3). It is recommended for sparse or excessively grown hair after perm, as well as for hairstyles in which it is necessary to create volume at the roots of the hair.

The essence of the root method of curling is that not all the hair is curled, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or maintaining the same curl on them.

You can start wrapping from any area of the head. However, it must be borne in mind that if the hair has previously been permed, then the bobbin should be wound at a distance of 2 cm from the regrown part of the hair. For example, if the hair has grown 8cm, then the bobbin is installed at a distance of 10cm from the edge of the hair.

The strand is wound around the bobbin in a figure eight. In this case, the end of the strand is in the left hand, and with the right hand they hold the part of it that is located on the bobbin. Having made the required number of turns towards the hair roots, the bobbin is secured with an elastic band.

Having twisted all the hair in this way, proceed to the next stage of their processing: a chemical composition is applied to each bobbin so that it does not get on the untwisted ends of the hair.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the hair structure).

All subsequent stages of root perm are similar to the stages of classic perm.

Spiral hair perm using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform spiral perm (Fig. 4).

Spiral perm and two ways to do it

A strand of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital area), twisted into a rope and wound in a spiral onto a bobbin. In this case, the turns of the spiral are placed close to each other. The direction of twisting the tourniquet and the direction of winding it onto the bobbin must coincide.

A strand of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), while it is not twisted into a bundle, but is immediately wound in a spiral onto a bobbin, placing the turns close to each other.

Corrugated hair perm start from the lower occipital zone. Select a strand of hair in the form of a square and wind it tightly onto a plastic hairpin using the figure eight principle. Next, all the stages of classic perm are performed.

With a corrugated perm, you get the same curl as with a perm using braids.

Perm on boomerangs (Fig. 6) allows you to get a voluminous curl. In this case, the bobbins are wound in a checkerboard pattern. All other stages are the same as in a classic perm. The width of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the bobbin.

Perm hair with ring curls

Perm with ring curls (Fig. 7) is used to create volume on short hair. The hair is divided into strands in the form of squares, the size of which depends on the desired effect, and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The larger the square, the more voluminous the resulting curl will be. The end of the strand is wrapped in a special piece of paper, the strand is twisted into a ring curl and secured with a non-metallic curler.

Perm hair - Types and types

Perms have a long history, and it took a long time before the procedure was perfected. After all, just recently, in all Soviet hairdressing salons, clients were curled in the same style so that they looked like lambs. Such chemistry looked unnatural and even comical; on top of everything else, it also burned hair - in a word, it disfigured women as much as possible.

Nature has endowed few representatives of the fair sex with luxuriant curls. But charming curls suit almost everyone - they make a woman's facial features softer, giving them a femininity. And for those who always want to have a beautiful hairstyle with curly hair, there is a wonderful solution - perm, which can completely change a woman’s image and hide some imperfections in her face shape.

Chemistry is an auxiliary method for hair styling. She prepares her hair for curling. Recommended for those who use curlers or curling irons every day. In addition, thanks to chemistry, the problem associated with oily hair is eliminated.

The curly hair effect usually lasts for 3-4 months depending on the quality of the chemical composition. But, nevertheless, the individual characteristics of a person’s hair structure should be taken into account.

Currently, dramatic changes have occurred in the field of hair perm. Modern chem. The curling department has high-quality, highly effective preparations and means that allow any improvisation of curling from the smallest to the largest curl. All that remains from the previous chemistry is the principle of hair curling, which is based on changing the structure of the hair. Everything regarding the methods of approach to the procedure and the method of curling, they have improved so much that this has allowed modern chemistry to damage the hair at a minimal level.

There are many types and types of hair perm:

Types of hair perm

Acid-based curling. Provides lasting hold, suitable for all hair types, but has a strong effect on the hair.

Alkaline perm. This type has a gentler effect on the hair and gives the curls a natural look, but is not suitable for all hair types and lasts no more than 3 months.

Neutral curl. It has a gentle effect on the hair due to the fact that this curling method is pH neutral. Suitable for all hair types, works equally well on all areas of the hair, regardless of the degree of hair damage.

Amino acid perm. The amino acids and proteins contained in the composition penetrate into the hair during the procedure and help it recover faster.

Types of hair perms

Curling on curlers creates the effect of naturally curly hair with light wavy curls falling on top of each other.

Spiral perm great for long hair. After curling, the small spirals curl into rings without twisting with each other.

Perm “on a pigtail” Suitable for shoulder length hair and below. Strands braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted into bobbins, are treated with a chemical composition.

Perm “on a stiletto heel” Looks good on shoulder length hair. Strands of hair are wound onto a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting the second bobbin- part of the strand is wound onto one bobbin, and then “twisted” the second. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm “children’s”. Its purpose is to eliminate the influence of the composition on the scalp. The head is covered with a plastic cap, strands are pulled through the holes in it and a regular perm is done.

Basal A perm is performed on the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp to create fullness at the roots or to obtain curls at the roots of the hair if the hair that was previously permed has grown back.

Unfortunately, perming has a strong impact on the hair structure, which in some cases can lead to serious problems. To minimize the possible adverse effects of perm, follow simple rules:

do not dye your hair before perm;
If you are sick, put off getting a perm;
choose curling products that contain less alcohol and lots of nutrients;
to wash your hair after a perm, use a special shampoo for permed hair or a mild shampoo for damaged and weakened hair;
to moisturize and strengthen your hair, restore its shine and silkiness, make hair masks containing beneficial substances (moisturizing panthenol and keratin, collagens, silk proteins), as well as hot masks using hair oil;
after a perm, the ends of your hair often begin to split, so regularly trim the ends of your hair a little or apply a special cream to the ends of your hair;
To best preserve your curls, comb your hair only with wide-toothed combs.

Perm as a process and mechanism of change...

Perm as a process

The mechanism of changing hair shape during perm. Perm is a process as a result of which the hair becomes full and supple, and the strands curl into curls of varying sizes and rigidity. A wide variety of hairstyles are performed using perm. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain its desired shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as it was 60 years ago.

Human hair is made of keratin, a water-insoluble protein containing spindle cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cystine, which stabilizes the protein structure, but under the influence of perm preparations it breaks down at the site of the cystine bond:

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

Once this bond is broken, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wound onto bobbins, in cross section they take the shape of an ellipse. It is known that straight hair is round in cross section, wavy hair has the shape of an ellipse, and strongly curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be carried out, for example, with a weak 1-3% solution of hydrogen peroxide or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine bond is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation on them, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, its structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), and the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Stages of perm. There are three stages of perm. On First stage They produce chemical effects using compounds and physical effects using bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

On Second stage They produce a chemical effect - they secure the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

On Third stage Neutralization is carried out - hardening of keratin.

The principle of perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of disulfur bridges, which create an internal connection in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

IN first phase perm, a chemical process of deoxidation occurs. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks the disulfur bridges. During this phase, chemical action occurs.

In second phase Cheating occurs. The hair changes shape when wound with bobbins. The broken disulfur bridges in the keratin chains are displaced and the hair takes on a bobbin shape. During this phase, mechanical action occurs.

IN third phase Fixation occurs.

Thanks to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative, oxygen is released. By combining with hydrogen, it restores disulfur bridges. The hair is fixed in a new form. Its integrity and strength returns to it, but in a new form (Fig. 83). During this phase, chemical action occurs.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of destroyed disulfur bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. To do this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and accurately observe the exposure time. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the exposure time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. On the contrary, if you choose a weak chemical composition or reduce the holding time, the curl will be very weak, and such a chemical perm will last a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. A chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed through pH. pH scale incl.

Some values range from 0 to 14; pure water, considered a Neutral Substance, has a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH value below 7 is Acidic, and a pH value above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes hair to soften and swell, while an acidic solution causes hair to shrink and harden. There are instruments and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. Thus, when a piece of paper soaked in nitric acid salts is immersed in an alkaline environment, its darkening is noted. In an acidic environment there is little or no color change. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, the resulting value in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a slightly acidic reaction. Perm compositions have a pH of about 10 with a shift towards the alkaline side. The acidity index in neutralizing substances is about 3, this indicator is located on the acidic side of the scale. Until the specialist studies the condition of the client’s hair and has data on previous cosmetic procedures, one should not use solutions with a pH closer to 7. Ignorance can lead to damage to the client’s hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient in an alkaline curling lotion is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of an alkaline curling lotion is usually 8.2-9.6 depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than the acid-balanced one. Sometimes alkaline perms are performed using a perm compound with water, some hair requiring a plastic hood, others not.

The benefits of alkaline perms include Stronger curls (usually last longer); Possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to obtain a mulberry curl if the client’s previously obtained a perm that was too weak.

Acid balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monotiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of an alkaline composition. This formulation is gentler on the hair and usually produces less tight curls than an alkaline cold perm. An acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5 and penetrates the hair more slowly than an alkaline lotion, so the hair treatment takes longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exothermic

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazone or an infraheater (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow curling at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than regular ones, but the active ingredient is the same.

The benefits of an acid-balanced perm are softer curls and a longer but controlled treatment time. An acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or dyed; In order to get curls or waves close to natural, perm serves as the basis of the hairstyle. The disadvantage is that an acid-based perm is less durable than a classic (alkaline-based) one; after 4-6 weeks, the hair becomes less voluminous.

Composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perms perform the same function: to fix curls for a long time. Neutralization is a very important stage. If the hair is not neutralized correctly, the curl may weaken or develop after shampooing. Basically, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent and an acidic pH. Methods for using neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Just like an alkaline-based perm, it has a pH value of 7.4, but is much more gentle than acid-based chemicals.

Scientists developed the neutral perm method taking into account the fact that hair has so-called hydrophilic zones (water-repellent), which easily absorb excess perm liquid, unlike hydrophobic zones. Neutral perms smooth out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb liquid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perms are ideal for clients whose hair feels rough after a perm and requires more protection. A special keratin complex, already during perm, smoothes out damage that appears in the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Choosing a permanent. The decision about what type of permanent should be used (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern permanent treatments offer a wide range of choices. There are alkaline compositions for bleached Hair and acid-balanced ones - for hard, unruly hair. Each of them gives excellent results if you select them correctly and follow the instructions.

Preparatory work. Preparatory work for perm includes:

*Preparation of the workplace;

*Inviting the client to the chair;

*Conducting dialogue;

*Washing hands and disinfecting instruments;

Preparation of devices: two non-metallic bowls (one for composition, one for fixer), two sponges (small for composition, large for fixer), applicators, gloves, measuring cup, insulating cap and bobbins;

Combing hair and performing diagnostics: determination of hair condition (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (test: applied on the bend of the elbow or behind the ear composition and stand for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Perform hygienic washing.

All haircuts with a clear, geometric shape are performed before perm.

Types and sizes of bobbins. Bobbins can be concave or straight. Concave bobbins are narrower in the center, gradually towards the ends

Expand; As a result, the curl is steeper at the end and looser at the roots of the hair. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along the entire length, and the curl is even. The bobbin is equipped with an elastic band (elastic band) attached to one end and secured to the other when the hair is already curled.

When choosing the bobbin size, you need to take into account the desired number of curls and the physical characteristics of the hair. The number of waves, curls and volume of hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. When choosing bobbin sizes, hair characteristics such as length, elasticity and texture are taken into account, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and elasticity require dividing the hair into medium strands; The bobbins should also be of medium size. If you have a fine texture and poor elasticity, you should divide your hair into smaller strands than with a medium texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent hair damage. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To perm long hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands and curled evenly and close to the head. Dividing into small strands promotes uniform wetting.

Perm hair

Many women dream of beautiful curls, but not everyone is blessed with curly hair. One option to achieve the desired effect is perm.

Many of us have probably experienced the disappointment of having a “classic” perm. Spoiled, incomprehensible color hair sticking out in all directions and one dream - to cut it all off as soon as possible. Now there are opportunities to minimize the adverse effects of chemicals on hair; it is possible to choose a perm not only in external indicators, but also according to the type of your hair.

True, a lot will depend on the hairstylist who will perm your hair. From my own experience, I can say that my most successful perm was the very first one. It was done with soul, but in completely unimaginable conditions, with the most ordinary “Lokon”. I was not able to achieve such a result again, which is a pity.

A true professional will definitely analyze your hair type and select a curl according to the results. For example, a gentle acid perm is suitable for tired hair. Unlike conventional chemicals, acid perms have a pH value between 6 and 7, which almost corresponds to the natural acid protective coating of the skin and hair. This means that acid perms won't strain your hair too much. If you have sensitive skin on your head, a biological perm containing sulfides is suitable for you and is very gentle on the scalp. Conventional chemicals are only suitable for healthy or very fine hair. Its only advantage is that it lasts at least twice as long as any other curling option.

And yet, the choice is yours.

So, what you need to consider when making your choice:

Negative points:

Any hair requires care and attention; a perm will not save you from the hassle of styling and care, rather the opposite. Despite the fact that gentle options for perms have now been developed, hair nevertheless experiences stress and negative effects and requires restorative treatment. Permed hair requires careful combing and styling.

A gentle perm lasts less than a classic perm.

Success will largely be determined by the professionalism of the master. He will not only do a high-quality perm, but will also help you decide on the type of perm depending on the structure of your hair, its health, the expected size of the curls and their rigidity. If you are not confident in the master, you risk ruining your hair and mood.

There are a lot of undesirable aspects that can reduce the results to zero. More on this later.

You may have to tint your hair, as it may still lose its original color.

If you live in an area with a hot, dry climate, this can also be bad for your hair. They will require more careful care.

Permanence. If you change your mind, you will have to wait a long time until your hair becomes natural, and perhaps part with a stubborn part of it.

And now about the positive aspects:

If you have a humid climate, and at the same time you love curls, you should choose a perm, because in the rain, in damp weather, the permed curls will only be clearer, which cannot be said about the curls laid with curlers or curling irons.

Permed hair can be styled less frequently.

Hair becomes more manageable.

If you have oily hair, chemicals will dry it out.

Perms add volume to hair.

Permanence. This can also be a positive quality if you make the right choice.

If you have an unbearable desire to do chemistry and this will simply make your soul calmer, do it, taking into account all the necessary information for the right choice.

You should not get a perm if:

your hair is exhausted, sick and requires restorative treatment.
your body is weakened by illness or stress.
you are pregnant or taking hormonal medications that affect the hormonal levels of your body, so to speak, creating the effect of “imaginary pregnancy”.
you are breastfeeding.
you are having your period.
If your blood pressure is high, if it is low, try to raise it by drinking a cup of coffee.
in the room where perm is performed at less than 24°C in winter and 22°C in summer.
you are allergic to the drug.
Have you recently tinted or dyed your hair? After coloring your hair, you need to wait 2-3 weeks for the perm. Spend this time on intensive hair care.
the day before you treated your hair with a composition containing metal or urzol (for example, “Hair Color Restorer”, etc.)
you constantly use products containing silicones. If these are shampoos with conditioner, then the silicones contained in it will dissolve in water, just warn your hairdresser to remove any remaining product with an exfoliating shampoo. Read more about silicones below.

"Killers" of perms?

Silicones in combination shampoos

(material is based on the book "500 hairstyles and makeup tips. Advice from professionals")

Products called Two-in-one (two products in one bottle) are becoming increasingly popular. Are they to blame for a failed perm?

Silicones are different

1. Water-soluble silicones form stable foam and are especially used in shampoos. They are not deposited in the hair.

2. Silicone oils increase shine and make hair easier to comb. They are found in mouthwashes, medicinal products and many combination products. These oils do not dissolve in water, but are washed off with shampoo. With frequent use, they accumulate in the hair.

3. High-polymer silicones glue the split ends of the hair. Silicones, especially those that are included in the liquid for the care of hair ends, are deposited in the form of a dense film on the hair and are difficult to remove.

Weak perm, dull coloring and hair that hangs limply after every wash - many women face these difficulties. But few know how to deal with this.

Meanwhile, the use of combined products has simplified hair care. Shampoo and conditioner in one bottle is a wonderful discovery. Time is saved, and often this type of hair care is cheaper. It's no surprise that two-in-one products have now captured about 15% of the market share. However, the growing popularity of these products scares many hairdressers. “Perm, coloring and tinting of hair no longer works as well as before. Hairdressers are increasingly complaining about this,” says B. Müller, Chairman of the Board of the Central Union of German Hairdressers. Hairdressers suspect that the culprit of the above-mentioned troubles is the silicone contained in many products.

Silicones are widely used in hair care products and are essentially harmless. In many combination shampoos their share is negligible. Drops of silicone that are deposited on the hair make it softer, shiny and easier to style. However, with constant use of shampoo, more and more droplets of silicone are deposited on the hair, which form a film and close the pores. Further types of chemical treatments, such as tinting or perming, can no longer have the desired effect on the hair. First of all, delicate fine hair becomes heavy and the curl does not hold on it.

H. Daniel from the Union of Hygienic and Detergent Manufacturers, defending the new shampoos from attacks, refers to in-house tests and studies that were carried out in New Zealand and the Scandinavian countries and did not find a deterioration in the quality of perm and toning. But since the research has only recently begun and the results of longer trials have not yet been received, hairdressers' doubts seem to be justified.

Undoubtedly, certain types of silicones are always deposited on the hair. Silicones are specially introduced into the hair end care liquid to achieve just this effect. Therefore, if you intend to get a perm, you should not often use products containing silicones.<:>

Combined shampoo should not be used daily, but not more than twice a week. The rest of the time, use regular shampoo.
You need to buy a combination shampoo according to your hair type and use a small amount for each wash.
To wash delicate, thin hair, combination shampoos can be used only in exceptional cases. Hair quickly becomes covered with silicone and becomes limp.
For hair oversaturated with silicone, the cosmetic industry produces special neutralizers that prevent the deposition of silicone on the hair. These products are convenient for those who do not want to hesitate with perm.
When asking a hairdresser for a perm, toning or coloring, be sure to tell him about the previous hair care.

About perm

What is a perm?

Perm is the general name for the process as a result of which the hair becomes voluminous and pliable, the strands are curled into curls of varying sizes and rigidity.

What happens to hair during perm?

The hair substance softens under the action of acid (thioglycolic acid), its natural sulfur compounds dissolve. At this stage of curling, the hair takes a new shape with the help of curlers or curlers and is fixed in it.

Which perm is right for your hair?

This entirely depends on their thickness and condition.

It is believed that the thinner the hair, the more demanding it is for perm products, since thin hair itself is soft, weak and sags quickly. Therefore, the curling product must be strong enough to lock fine hair into its new shape. Thick, fine hair is naturally stronger and retains its shape better, so lighter chemicals are enough for them. Classic perm is best for healthy hair. If done correctly, it lasts from three to six months. True, it is not harmless to hair, therefore, in order for it to maintain its shine and healthy appearance, you have to use special rinses and balms.

If you have sensitive scalp, it is better to choose a bioperm, which contains sulfide instead of thioglycolic acid and is gentle and gentle on the hair and scalp. The new product is pleasant to the skin: the foul-smelling and burning ammonia is not included in its composition. Instead, natural urea is used, which causes the hair to swell before curling. This substance is almost odorless and does not pollute the environment. But still, no long-term perm can be done without hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, which is part of the hair bleaching cream. And this operation also tires the hair.

For tired hair, chemicals with an acid base are suitable. Unlike the alkaline composition for classical perm, the acid composition has a pH value of + 6-7, which is approximately equal to the pH value in the anti-acid layer of hair and skin, which naturally facilitates the penetration of acids into their structure. The disadvantage of an acid composition is that it is less stable than an alkaline one. The perm lasts about half as long as a regular perm with a classic composition, about 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, acid perms are not suitable for all hair types. So, for example, it is useless to try to do an acid perm on so-called strong hair - smooth and so straight that after each attempt to make waves, it returns to its previous state. They simply do not accept the chemical curling fluid. If your waves don't last at all, ask your hairdresser to test your hair with a special device or just do a test curl on one strand.

And finally, neutral perm is a new product. It has a neutral pH value, is less damaging to the scalp and works equally well on all areas of the hair. There are areas on every person's head where the hair is either too unruly or damaged. Thus, one part of the hair lends itself well to perming, while the other does not. And the consequence of this is uneven curling, often without shine. Neutral perm has a uniform effect on the hair and is suitable for all hair types. It's also ideal for those who want to do their own perms: it's sold as a wave foam with integrated nutrients. A special keratin complex, already during perm, smoothes out damage that appears on the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

When making your choice, consult a professional hairdresser. He will help you figure out what is right for you.

TYPES OF PERMS

Curling on curlers

This type of curling creates the effect of naturally curly hair and creates light wavy curls.

For curling curls, the upper hair is divided into “steps”. This gives the hairstyle additional flexibility. The hairdresser separates the appropriately wide strands and winds them into large curling irons. They need to be arranged randomly. The hair strands should be curled in the same direction, but not parallel. This will create a picture of beautifully flowing, naturally curly hair. Then curling agents are applied. It is selected taking into account the structure and condition of your hair.

Spiral perm

Perfect for long hair, but can also be done for hair length up to the earlobe.

The peculiarity of spiral “chemistry” is the shape of the curls. Long hair is twisted in small strands into small spirals. After curling, they curl in rings without twisting with each other. The hairdresser achieves the same effect with a regular perm if he first twists individual strands into strands. It is recommended to dry spiral chemicals at room temperature or with a hairdryer with a diffuse nozzle. It acts as a filter, allowing air to pass through many small holes, without tangling your hair.

Perm "on a pigtail"

Suitable for shoulder length hair and below. The peculiarity of this perm is that strands braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted into bobbins, are treated with a chemical composition. But you can also twist the entire braid. This achieves an interesting effect.

Perm "on a hairpin"

Looks good on shoulder length hair.

The peculiarity of this perm is that strands of hair are wound onto a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with curling the second partsticks

The peculiarity of this type of perm is that part of the strand is wound onto one bobbin, and then “twisted” the second. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Children's perm

The purpose of performing a “children’s” perm is to avoid the composition on the scalp and hair roots.

This kind of curling is done like this. The head is covered with a plastic cap. Using a regular crochet hook, strands are pulled through the holes in the plastic cap made with the same crochet hook. Next, the usual perm is done.

Perm "Twin"

This type of perm is distinguished by the shape of the curl: half of the strand has curls in the form of vertical curls, and half - in the form of horizontal curls.

Root perm

It is used in cases where it is necessary to perm a part of the strand adjacent to the scalp, for example, to create fullness at the roots or to obtain curls at the roots of the hair if the hair, previously permed, has grown back. The length of the strand to be curled is selected as desired.

Advice:

In order to pre-determine the expected curl shape and appearance of the hairstyle using non-traditional types of perm, you can perm by moisturizing the hair strands with plain water with the addition of beer in a 1:1 ratio or with the addition of citric acid (add citric acid to 1/2 cup of water). tip of the knife).

A few hours after perming, the hair should be rinsed with acidified water (a tablespoon of table vinegar per liter of water);

On the day of curling, do not comb your hair;

For 2-4 days, do not wash your hair or heat-treat it, for example, using a hair dryer, hot rollers, etc. is not recommended.

Do not use electric tongs;

You can't comb your hair with a brush. A comb or wide-toothed comb is more suitable for this;

Do not overdry your hair, try not to expose it to direct rays of the sun, be sure to rinse your hair after swimming (in salted or chlorinated water);

In order to improve the hair structure, do not use urine therapy, since the curl may soon “develop”;

Use special nourishing shampoos and balms to wash your hair;

It is advisable to conduct a health and restoration course for hair.

Gentle hair washing. Ideal for washing with super-mild shampoo for damaged hair after perm or washing with shampoo and conditioner. Hair breaks less as it becomes more elastic. You need to lather your scalp and hair roots with shampoo. It is enough to clean long hair with the remaining shampoo flowing down the hair.

Recovery at night. The effect of chemicals during curling affects not only the external, but also the internal structure of the hair. Protein compounds disappear, which give the hair strength and at the same time make the hair elastic. The consequence of this is dry, brittle hair without shine. A special course of treatment in ampoules restores damaged hair within seven days. The ampoules are used as follows: the liquid from the entire ampoule is applied to dry hair in the evening and combed. Overnight, it will be absorbed into the hair and begin to restore damaged connections. In the morning, your hair should be rinsed well.

Course of treatment in between. Instant action, ideal for women who have little time. To do this, just spray your hair with moisturizing liquid. An amazing double effect: nutrients are introduced into dry hair and at the same time the curl is “refreshed” through massage. For hair particularly affected by perms, it is necessary to apply a nutrient aerosol daily.

Regular energy saturation. Regardless of whether your permed hair looks faded or not, you should rinse it well after each wash. Hair masks should be done after every 3 or 4 hair washes. New perms contain lightweight nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and hair growth-enhancing keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also give elasticity to the curls.

Soft styling is acceptable. This applies mainly to long hair. Be warned: hot air from a hair dryer is poison. Dry your hair only with warm air using a diffuser attachment, otherwise the hair will become tangled and the curls will be unable to curl. New: drying under an infrared lamp - just like in a hairdresser. It is difficult to imagine a more gentle drying method. If you want to achieve trendy big waves, roll large sections of hair into pre-heated Soft Styler rollers. The advantages of this method: the hair remains dry, the curlers cool within 20 minutes and do not require clips or pins.

An excellent effective remedy is hot oil. This is the latest innovation: it strengthens the hair without leaving any traces of oil on it. Its secret lies in a new combination of ingredients from keratinates and protein hydrolysates and thermal action. Closed bottles of oily liquid should be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then uncorked and inserted into damp hair. Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed on the surface of the head and have a better effect on the hair. Let the oil soak in a little and then wash it off with shampoo. Thanks to this treatment course, hair becomes healthier and more elastic.

Natural oils are the most valuable find for hair.

In order to do a high-quality perm yourself, you first need to understand what effects the hair is exposed to during this procedure.

If we look at a section of straight hair, we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair has the shape of an oval. What follows from this? To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting along the axis. When you wind your hair with curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curl is maintained until the next hair wash.

Before perm, the keratin scales of the surface layer of hair are tightly closed. But under the influence of the chemical composition, the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when wound on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The breakdown of molecular bonds should ideally reach 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous. The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. To do this, use a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and it begins to return to its natural state: the previous connections inside the hair are restored, the keratin acquires its original strength and elasticity, and the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the perm will turn out to be fragile.

During perm, hair experiences physical and chemical stress simultaneously. When wound around a bobbin, the hair is stretched, in addition, each layer of hair puts pressure on the underlying one. Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature during curling increases, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, so during the curling process an insulating cap is used that retains the natural heat of the human body.

Each subsequent curl will look less beautiful than the previous one, since chemicals destroy the keratin of the hair, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which reacts differently to the curling solution. There may come a time when your hair simply stops being curled, and you will have to wait a while for it to grow back.

Hair curling tools

If you decide to do a perm at home, then you will need a sufficient amount bobbins of various shapes and diameters - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts and are secured with rubber bands. You can also use plastic curlers for perm at home, which are also secured with an elastic band or clip.

Peignoir(a special cape made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes in order, and protective gloves will protect your hands and nails from aggressive solution.

Among other things, you will need:

plastic comb-tail,
curling compound and fixative,
insulating cap,
bowl and sponge for fixative,
drug for neutralization and stabilization,
biological fixative.

Please note: during curling, products from the same company/brand must be used. You can buy all this in a specialized store.

Perm compositions

Alkaline permanent(from Latin regmaneo - I remain, I continue) is used for curling healthy and natural hair. The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects in humans - malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).

Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), and a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 °C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the low swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the product is less stable and the curl does not last very long.

Soft alkaline permanent- a gentle solution, when used, the hair also receives a protein course of treatment, due to which the hair structure improves and the curl becomes more durable. Has no smell. Disadvantage - often causes allergies.

Gel-like product for permanent- used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's short haircuts. To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.

Foam permanent- the most harmless preparation for hair curling. It is so soft that the result is hair with volume and virtually no frizz.

As mentioned above, great importance in perm is given to fixatives that have oxidizing properties. Such preparations must contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. Fixators perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, ensure stabilization of the resulting curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Fixatives can be of the following type and consistency:

concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a ratio of one to one, their packaging bears the inscription “1 + 1”),
non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, but it must be remembered that in this case it is the foam that “works”).
non-foam solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).

Perm stages

Ideally, it is better to do the “chemistry” in a hairdressing salon with an experienced hairdresser, but if you want to do the perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions.

First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If there is, then you should wait until the skin heals with a perm.

Perm should be performed in the following sequence:

Wash your hair with shampoo, squeeze out the moisture and dry with a towel.
Determine the method of applying the chemical to the hair.
Curl your hair into bobbins.
Soak your hair with the chemical composition.
Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
Record the start time of exposure on the clock.
Check the quality of the curl.
Rinse off the drug, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
Remove the bobbins.
Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
Rinse the fixative with running water and squeeze out the water.
Rinse your hair with an acidic solution to neutralize the fixer.
Dry your hair with a towel.
Apply a medicinal product to restore hair structure.

When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, it is better to postpone the perm. It is also necessary to check whether you have an allergic reaction to the drugs. It appears most quickly on thin, delicate skin, behind the ear. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab on the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).

Choosing a curling composition

It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and make the right choice of the appropriate drug, since the degree of impact of different drugs differs from each other.

First of all, we need to determine hair structure. Let us remind you that hair can be soft, medium, or hard. How to determine this? If your hair feels soft and limp to the touch, then you have soft hair; if it is coarse and thick, it means it is coarse, and if it is neither one nor the other, it means your hair is normal.

Then it is determined hair quality- thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and its quality are closely interrelated. If your hair is soft, it means it is thin. Blondes are more likely to have this type of hair, while brunettes are more likely to have thick, thick hair.

In addition, it is very important type of previous hair treatment- dyed, bleached, with permanent residue, untreated. The fact is that the previous method of processing hair increases its porosity; it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, and hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and means of protection, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment.

There are several permanent rules for damaged hair:

when curling the roots that have grown after the perm, you should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
For heavily bleached hair and a large percentage of highlighted (partially dyed) strands, hair protection products must be used to even out the structure of dyed and sectioned hair and ensure uniform perming.

Keep in mind that each company that produces perm compositions usually offers several types of preparations:

for healthy, previously untreated, difficult-to-treat hair,
for normal hair,
for porous hair that has previously been exposed to oxidizing agents,
for blond and highlighted hair.

Hair washing

There is a rule: perm is performed only on clean hair! Therefore, before curling, you must wash them, regardless of the last time you did this. This will slightly open the scales, which will speed up the penetration of the hair curling composition.

The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to preserve the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After drying your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of hair).

If the hair has recently been dyed with vegetable dyes, in particular henna, then it may not curl, since henna has tanning properties, which makes the hair very thick and prevents the composition from penetrating inside. In order to remove henna from hair, you need to make an alcohol-oil compress: very carefully, so as not to get it on the skin, moisten the hair with a 70% alcohol solution and leave for 5-10 minutes; then apply some vegetable oil to your hair and cover your hair with polyethylene; leave for at least 30 minutes and rinse with shampoo for oily hair. If you can’t remove the henna the first time, the procedure can be repeated.

Curling hair with bobbins

The process of winding strands of hair onto a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed out, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound onto the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully twisted and do not bristle or stand out from the general mass.

The direction of hair curling depends on:

From the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, the hair can be broken at the root).
From the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future).
From a haircut that can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.

The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or located close to the roots, so that there are no creases that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic band can be at the top of the curler or placed crosswise. You can also use hairpins to secure your hair - wooden or plastic.

Hair curling methods

Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition and then curled: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the healthiest hair grows there. To get an even curl, you need to curl your hair very quickly. They are pre-wetted in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times.

Indirect method. Wet hair is rolled into curlers and then moistened with a curling solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Winding is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, since wet hair absorbs the solution faster and better retains its original structure.

Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before curling, only the ends of the hair should be moistened with the composition, retreating 2/3 from the roots. In this way, the bobbins are wound around the entire head, and then all the hair is wetted.

According to the way the bobbins are placed on the head, the curl is divided into horizontal and vertical.

At horizontal way the hair is wound onto a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only on the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to the increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution.

At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the roots of the hair to its ends - and the bobbin is located vertically on the head. The main advantage of this type of curling is that the curl is uniform along the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal heat for the curling process.

One more note: if the hair has been permed several times and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer so much.

Applying the curling compound

Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline should be lubricated with a protective cream, and a napkin rolled up should be tied around the head. After impregnation of the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully placed on the head, being careful not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly secured, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.

Exposure time

After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curl in the hair will increase slightly, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if exposed to the curling composition for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.

Rinse

Without removing the bobbins, you need to rinse your hair very thoroughly in the shower. Rinse time depends on hair length. So, hair up to 10 cm in length is washed for at least 1 minute, 10 - 20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.

Fixation

The result of a perm depends on proper fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is done superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly washing your hair and patting it with a towel, apply the fixative.

The holding time is determined according to the following table:

After applying the fixative and the required holding time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to pull back the curl. Then the fixative is applied again.

After re-fixation, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.

At the final stage, a biological fixative is applied, which instantly strengthens the keratin of the hair, makes it elastic, affects the duration of the perm and the elasticity of the curls. After thoroughly washing your hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and apply the product evenly to it. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly washed again. After this, you can use a rinse balm, which will restore the natural acid pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.

Hair care after perm

It takes at least 48 hours for the hair keratin to strengthen. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry or blow-dry your hair during this time, or curl it with curlers.

For perms, there are rules:

It is necessary to wash your hair only with special shampoos, and also use special balms for hair with perms.
If the hair is very dry, you should carry out intensive treatment that will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
After every 3-4th hair wash, it is advisable to use medicinal preparations, and for long hair, a preparation for the ends of the hair is necessary, because they will become drier after curling.
In order for the “chemistry” to last as long as possible, you should not pull your hair while it is wet or twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a sparse comb, immediately giving them shape with your hands. Don't go to bed with a wet head.
It is necessary to protect your hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer to protect it with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to overdry your hair or damage it with backcombing. For styling you should use a nourishing foam balm.

And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of the home hairdresser will not be in vain: with a perm, morning styling becomes easier, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, holds its shape better and makes it possible to try many different hairstyles.

28.11.2007 13:23:39, Elena

I just got my hair permed at the salon. It’s a shame that I didn’t read this article earlier; I could have told the hairdresser a lot.

01/22/2006 12:44:12, Victoria

Thank you for the article, just the answer to my question! :-) I'm not going to do chemicals, but the tips on how to properly curl my hair will be very useful, so I went to do my styling! :-)

Perm as a process

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

The chemical process occurs at pH = 9 - 11; The higher the pH of the composition, the stronger its effect on the hair. The hair swells faster, the S-S cystine bonds are broken faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore, the choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, its structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), and on the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Stages of perm. There are three stages of perm. At the first stage, a chemical effect is carried out using compounds and a physical effect is carried out using bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

At the Second stage, a chemical effect is carried out - the newly formed bonds are secured using a fixer.

At the Third stage, neutralization is carried out - hardening of the keratin.

The principle of perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of disulfur bridges, which create an internal connection in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

In the first phase of perm, the chemical process of Deoxidation occurs. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks the disulfur bridges. During this phase, chemical action occurs.

In the second phase, Cheating occurs. The hair changes shape when wound with bobbins. The broken disulfur bridges in the keratin chains are displaced and the hair takes on a bobbin shape. During this phase, mechanical action occurs.

In the third phase, Fixation occurs.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. A chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed through pH. pH scale incl.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient in an alkaline curling lotion is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of an alkaline curling lotion is usually 8.2-9.6 depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than the acid-balanced one. Sometimes alkaline perms are performed using a perm compound with water, some hair requiring a plastic hood, others not.

The benefits of alkaline perms include Stronger curls (usually last longer); Possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to obtain a mulberry curl if the client’s previously obtained a perm that was too weak.

Acid balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monotiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of an alkaline composition. This formulation is gentler on the hair and usually produces less tight curls than an alkaline cold perm. An acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5 and penetrates the hair more slowly than an alkaline lotion, so the hair treatment takes longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exothermic

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazone or an infraheater (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow curling at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than regular ones, but the active ingredient is the same.

Composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perms perform the same function: to fix curls for a long time. Neutralization is a very important stage. If the hair is not neutralized correctly, the curl may weaken or develop after shampooing. Basically, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent and an acidic pH. Methods for using neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Just like an alkaline-based perm, it has a pH value of 7.4, but is much more gentle than acid-based chemicals.

Choosing a permanent. The decision about what type of permanent should be used (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Preparatory work. Preparatory work for perm includes:

*Preparation of the workplace;

*Inviting the client to the chair;

*Conducting dialogue;

*Washing hands and disinfecting instruments;

Preparation of equipment: two non-metallic bowls (one for the composition, the second for fixer), two sponges (small for composition, large for fixer), applicators, gloves, measuring cup, insulating cap and bobbins;

Combing hair and conducting diagnostics: determining the condition of the hair (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (test: on the bend apply the composition to the elbow or behind the ear and leave for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Perform hygienic washing.

All haircuts with a clear, geometric shape are performed before perm.

Types and sizes of bobbins. Bobbins can be concave or straight. Concave bobbins are narrower in the center, gradually towards the ends

Hair curling tools.

Perm compositions

Perm stages

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

Choosing a curling composition

Hair washing

Curling hair with bobbins

Hair curling methods

Applying the curling compound

Exposure time

Rinse

Fixation

Hair care after perm

Hair perm methods

Acid hair curling

Alkaline hair curling

Neutral hair curl

Amino acid hair curling

Hair curling "Silk wave"

Biowave hair

Japanese hair curl

American hair curl

Root chemistry

There are two methods of performing a perm: direct and indirect.

Perm performed using braids and bobbins

Perm hair - Types and types

Types of hair perm

Types of hair perms

Perm as a process and mechanism of change...

Perm hair

TYPES OF PERMS

Hair curling tools

Perm compositions

Perm stages

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

Choosing a curling composition

Hair washing

Curling hair with bobbins

Hair curling methods

Applying the curling compound

Exposure time

Rinse

Fixation

Hair care after perm

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