How to sew a hidden zipper. Zipper: easily sew in a hidden zipper Sewing in a zipper

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In this article you will learn how to quickly sew a zipper. This is a very simple technique that even a novice master can master. The zipper will fit straight, and you will spend no more than 10-15 minutes on the whole process, and even less if you practice a little.

Using this method, you can sew zippers into any type of clothing and accessories, provided that it is not hidden (like in jeans). Skirt, dress, pillowcase, jacket, trousers, bag... Our step-by-step master class will be useful in any of these cases. You can sew a zipper on ready-made items or on ones you make yourself. It’s convenient to do this at any stage of the creative process, so you shouldn’t have any difficulties.

What do we need?

  • zipper of the right size
  • thin tape

Progress

First, you need to fold the two halves of the fabric with the right sides inward. At a distance of approximately 1-2 cm (depending on the size of the zipper), make a continuous line using a sewing machine. Just sew the pieces together in the place where the zipper should be (don't worry, we don't sew the item forever, we'll remove this seam later).

We straighten the piece and smooth the seam, straightening it out.

We apply the zipper to the fabric and secure it with tape in several places. If you don't have tape, use safety pins or needles to secure it.

Turn the fabric right side over and sew a zipper on both sides using a machine.

Please note that there is no need to interrupt the sewing process - you need to sew a zipper at the bottom as well.

All that remains is to carefully rip apart the central part - the same one that we sewed first. It just covers the sewn-in zipper. We do this carefully using a steamer. If you don't have one, try using nail scissors.

AUTHOR ELENA KRASOVSKAYA

This type of fastener is used in dresses, skirts, and blouses. This fastener looks very good on items made from delicate fabrics.

To sew the fastener, you will need a special single-sided sewing machine foot (it is usually included with the sewing machine).

1. Open the hidden zipper and press the spiral so that you can see the “seam line” between the braid and the spiral.
Place the open zipper with the outer side on the front side of the cut to which the zipper is stitched, lengthwise.
To sew the fastener exactly along the marked seam line, you need to determine the interval between the edge of the zipper tape and the cut of the fabric: the width of the seam allowance minus 1 cm. braid width = distance to the fabric cut.

Pin (baste) the upper end of the zipper tape to the fabric at the required distance, which we determined above.
The lower end of the zipper should protrude beyond the lower end of the cut (approx. 2cm).
2. Place the sewing machine foot over the zipper so that the spiral is located under the notch of the foot to the right of the needle.

Sew the zipper from the top end to the cut mark.

Close the zipper.

3. Place the second zipper braid with the outer side on the right side of the fabric along the other edge of the cut and pin (baste) the upper end of the braid.
Open the zipper again.

Place the sewing machine foot over the zipper so that the spiral is located under the notch of the foot to the left of the needle.
Sew the braid from the top end to the cut mark.
Close the zipper.
On the wrong side, iron gently.

4. Next, stitch the cut below the cut mark for the zipper, turning the lower free end of the zipper over the seam allowance and starting the seam as close as possible to the last stitches of the zipper stitching seams.
Seam allowances need to be ironed.
Don't forget to overcast the seam allowances.

The appearance of the product depends on the accuracy of the hidden fastener. The more carefully you perform this operation, the better and more beautiful your product will be.

Therefore, take each step slowly, but in any case, to correct inaccuracies there is a convenient device called a seam ripper. If something doesn't work out, open the seam and do it again until a brilliant result.

Next time, another simple way to sew in a fastener is a zipper (not a hidden one).

With wishes of good luck, Elena Krasovskaya: http://shjem-krasivo.ru/

We sew in a regular zipper - 2 options

A simple zipper with plastic teeth is usually sewn into the fasteners of skirts, jackets, and trousers. We will consider two options for positioning the zipper in the fastener - in the center of the cut and offset to one edge.

How to sew a regular zipper in the center

Rice. 1. Stitch the parts of the product along the seam to the cut mark

Rice. 2. Stitch the open area for the zipper

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark. Sew the open area for the zipper using an auxiliary stitch with a stitch length of 4 mm.

Rice. 3. Processing seam allowances with bias tape

Press seam allowances and finish with bias tape or overcast stitch.

Rice. 4. Pin the zipper

Rice. 5. Baste the zipper with pins

On the wrong side, pin the zipper in the center of the seam. Baste the zipper using basting stitches.

Rice. 6. Sew a zipper

Install a special foot for attaching a zipper on the sewing machine, sew the zipper on the front side of the product, laying a line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the seam. Remove the basting.

Rice. 7. Open the auxiliary seam

Rice. 8. Finished zipper

Using a buttonhole ripper, open the auxiliary stitch and remove the threads. Iron the product from the front side through a damp cloth.

How to sew a zipper offset to the edge

Rice. 1. Stitch the seam up to the zipper cut

Rice. 2. Iron seam allowances

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark. Iron seam allowances and finish.

Rice. 3. Sew the zipper along the left side

Under the right side of the cut, baste one side of the zipper close to the teeth. Install a special zipper foot and stitch the zipper along the edge. To make it easier to sew the zipper along its entire length, unzip it.

Rice. 4. Thread the thread through the loop of the zipper dog

Rice. 5. Pull the thread and close the zipper

When there is 2 cm left to stitch to the bottom of the zipper, close the zipper without interrupting the stitching and finish the stitching. To close the zipper, use our advice: insert a thread folded several times into the loop of the zipper dog, lift the foot, pull the thread and close the zipper.

Rice. 6. Finish the line

Rice. 7. Pin the right side of the zipper

Rice. 8. Sew the right side of the zipper

Place the other side of the product over the zipper, pin it in place and baste. Starting at the bottom, sew a short horizontal stitch, then turn the piece 90 degrees and continue stitching the left side of the zipper. Sew the stitch at a distance of 0.6-0.7 cm from the center.

Rice. 9. The lower part of the zipper is stitched

Rice. 10. Finished zipper

The finished lightning is shown in Fig. 10.

HOW TO CAREFULLY AND BEAUTIFULLY SEW A ZIPPER

There are many ways to sew in a zipper, I would like to suggest trying one of them - not difficult to perform, but with an unusual order of operations.

Use soap to mark the stitching line for the seam where the zipper will be and pin together the details of the product.

Sew along the marked line using the largest stitch.

This seam will need to be removed at the very end of the work.

Press seam allowances.

Pin one part of the zipper with the right side to the seam allowance, moving the teeth one millimeter away from the seam.

Using a single-sided presser foot, sew a stitch, moving 2 millimeters away from the zipper teeth..

Fasten the zipper and bend it to the other side. Pin to a width of 5-7 millimeters.

Lay a line, stepping back from the fold by 1-2 millimeters.

Turn the zipper over to the seam allowance and pin the other side of it with pins.


Place a stitch along the second side of the zipper, retreating from the teeth by 2 millimeters.

Turn the piece over to the right side and pin together, marking the finishing stitch line.

Place a finishing stitch, catching the zipper as you do so.

Iron the knot from the front side.

Delete the very first line.

Voila! Everything turned out beautifully and neatly!

Another option for sewing in a zipper:

Place one end of the zipper face to face on the seam allowance of the product, which has been previously overcast (here in the photo it is not overcast, since the product was sewn on a lining) and stitch, stepping back from the edge of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Turn back the seam allowances on the product and stitch along the product 1-2 millimeters from the fold.

Sew the second side of the zipper in the same way. In the photo there is a valance detail or placket under the zipper.

And one more option. This involves attaching a zipper from the front side to the product.

You also need to stitch the seam and iron the seam allowances. If necessary, overcast or edge the allowances.
Then turn the piece over to the front side.

Place the zipper and pin it over the seam connecting the parts.

Sew the zipper with a zigzag or other finishing stitch.

The zipper lock is a unique invention that has been used for many years in sewing clothes and for repairing things. Today it is made from a variety of materials, for example, metal, plastic and polyester, and can also have different thicknesses and densities. Many craftswomen often come across these products during their work, but not all of them know how to sew a zipper with their own hands correctly, which is why various difficulties arise. Today we will try to understand this problem, tell you how to choose the right zipper and install it.

Zipper-lock device

Before you sew in a zipper yourself, you need to understand what it consists of in order to install it correctly. This is very important, since its service life directly depends on the correct selection of this device.

A classic functional elegant lock consists of the following elements:

  • Dog with a ring. This part moves along the line of the lock, disconnects and closes its links.
  • Cloves. Simply put, these are the links that provide the tightest possible connection.
  • A braid or strip of material. It is to this that the teeth are attached along the edge.
  • Rivets. These special elements prevent the pawl from sliding off the end of the line. As a rule, there are two rivets on top, on split models there is only one on the bottom.

If you decide to sew a zipper with your own hands, then you should choose the appropriate option, depending on the type of fabric and purpose of the clothing.

How to choose a zipper for a product?

Before sewing a zipper with your own hands, it is recommended to correctly determine the appropriate fastener option for a particular case.

Rules for choosing a zipper, depending on the purpose of the clothing:

  • For raincoats, windbreakers, and dresses made of thin fabric, it is better to purchase synthetic or plastic fasteners. They are lighter, more flexible, not afraid of moisture, and do not corrode, unlike untreated metal products.
  • For warm, heavy items, denim trousers, sportswear or activewear, metal zippers are suitable. They are distinguished by high strength indicators, all teeth reliably adhere to each other and withstand maximum tension.
  • Concealed zippers. Models with small elements made of synthetics and plastic are ideal for cases where it is not desirable for the locks to be visible.

Important! The hidden option is more often used for women's clothing. But it is with this that, as a rule, craftswomen have the greatest number of difficulties. The hardest thing is to make the zipper truly invisible; it should be located in the seam.

Features and methods of sewing in hidden zippers

Hidden fasteners must be sewn clearly and consistently, performing each step efficiently. It is important to securely fasten each element and work with the fabric as carefully as possible, while taking into account its basic parameters. For example, in materials that are too thin, the edges crumble, making the finished product look unsightly. Before sewing a hidden zipper with your own hands, you need to correctly determine the place to secure it.

There are several basic sewing methods:

  • Front in the middle. Such hidden fasteners are rarely found; more often they are placed on dresses with a cut-off waist or on tops.
  • In the side seam. In this case, it is important to be as careful as possible so that the side does not bend after the zipper is sewn.
  • Centered on the back. This is a universal option; it can be used for thick and thin fabrics.

Important! If you know how to sew in hidden zippers correctly, then it is not at all necessary to match them to the color of the product, since they are completely recessed into the seam and look like its continuation. The main feature of such locks is that the stitching on the front side is invisible. Before purchasing a part, you must first measure the cut for it. Ideally, it should be 2 cm longer.

How to sew a zipper yourself?

When starting to sew in a zipper yourself, make sure that all the edges are open.

Important! Remember about the allowances - the width must be at least 1.5 cm.

The product must first be marked with chalk, a bar of soap or a disappearing marker.

Sew in the zipper according to the following scheme:

  1. Open the fastener and place it on the seam allowance with the right side along one edge of the cut. At the same time, carefully ensure that all the teeth coincide with the axis of the middle of the back.
  2. Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side and press them. Determine the distance from the edge of the ribbon to the middle cut of the fabric.
  3. Use your finger to bend the teeth so that the seam space becomes visible between the braid and the teeth.
  4. Pin the top edge of the braid onto the seam allowance. That is, step back a small distance from the top cut.
  5. Determine the end of the tape at the bottom - it should protrude slightly beyond the bottom edge of the cut.
  6. Place the presser foot over the ribbon, with the spiral located under the notch, to the right of the needle.
  7. Sew the zipper from the top to the mark, close it. Complete the stitch when the foot hits the dog.
  8. Place the other side of the tape facing the seam allowance on the outside of the fabric. Pin the top edge of the tape with a pin. Open the structure again.
  9. Place the machine foot over the ribbon again, only now the spiral should be on the left side of the needle under the notch.
  10. Secure the tape along the cut from the top cut to the mark. Close the lock.
  11. Make an indent down from the mark on the cut, unscrew the free lower end of the lock at the seam allowances.
  12. Start the seam as close to the last stitch on the set seam as possible. The stitching should overlap the zipper stitching line and be positioned on the left at a distance of 1 mm. Always hold the end of the lock.
  13. Cut off the ends of the ribbon, make an edging with fabric, and secure the ends of the stitching with a double knot for security.
  14. Iron the seam allowances on the finished area.

How to sew a hidden fastener into a thin fabric item?

When choosing where the zipper will be located, remember that it looks different on fabrics with different characteristics:

  • It is better not to insert a fastener into the side seam of a light, thin, delicate dress, otherwise it will pull it down. In such cases, the best option is the center line on the back.
  • If the material is airy and loose, then it is better to additionally reinforce the seam allowances with non-woven fabric.
  • It is not recommended to sew zippers in one layer on chiffon products, because the zipper can pull back the fabric or become noticeable. In such situations, a special lining is needed.

You will need to perform the following steps to sew a zipper into a particularly thin material:

  1. Fold the parts made from the main light fabric with the wrong sides facing each other, stitch them at a distance of 7 mm from the cut.
  2. Sew the stitch to the end of the tape to the very edge of the seam allowance.
  3. Trim the allowances and iron the seam so that they remain inside.
  4. Lay the line straight, retreating 7 mm from the edge, finish it 3 cm further than the first line.
  5. Press the seam allowances in one direction and press above the seam.
  6. Along the cover, make the same seam, at the end of which there should be a transverse bartack.
  7. Score the seam allowance in the lining to join the two fabrics together.

Video material

Now you know how to sew a zipper with your own hands. If you practice a little, then in the future you will be able to independently sew any locks onto skirts, dresses or items made from any fabric.


A simple zipper with plastic teeth is used, as a rule, to process fasteners on skirts, jackets, and trousers. In this lesson we will look at two options for positioning the zipper in the fastener - in the center of the cut and offset to one edge.

How to sew a regular zipper in the center

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the cut mark for the fastener (Fig. 1). Secure the top of the seam and finish the thread.

Rice. 1. Stitch the parts of the product along the seam to the cut mark

Stitch the open section of the seam (under the zipper) using an auxiliary stitch with a stitch length of 4 mm (Fig. 2). This way, after sewing in the zipper, this auxiliary stitch will be easier to remove.

Rice. 2. Stitch the open area for the zipper

Press the seam allowances and finish them with an overlock stitch.

Rice. 3. Processing seam allowances with bias tape

On the wrong side, pin the zipper in the center of the seam.

Rice. 4. Pin the zipper

Baste the zipper using basting stitches.

Rice. 5. Baste the zipper with pins

Install a special zipper foot on the sewing machine, sew the zipper on the front side of the product, stitching at a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the seam. Remove the basting.

Rice. 6. Sew the zipper

Using a buttonhole ripper, open the auxiliary stitch and remove the threads.

Rice. 7. Open the auxiliary seam

Iron the product from the front side through a moistened iron (cotton damp cloth).

Rice. 8. Finished zipper

How to sew a zipper offset to the edge

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark.

Rice. 1. Stitch the seam up to the zipper cut

Iron seam allowances and finish.

Rice. 2. Iron seam allowances

Under the right side of the cut, baste one side of the zipper close to the teeth. Install a special zipper foot and stitch the zipper along the edge. To make it easier to stitch the entire length of the zipper, unzip it.

Rice. 3. Stitch the zipper along the left side

When there is 2 cm left to stitch to the bottom of the zipper, close the zipper without interrupting the stitching and finish the stitching. To close the zipper, use our advice: insert a thread folded several times into the loop of the zipper dog, and lift the foot.

Rice. 4. Thread the thread through the loop of the zipper dog

Pull the thread and close the zipper.

Rice. 5. Pull the thread and close the zipper

Finish the stitching to the bottom of the cut, secure the threads and trim the ends of the threads.

Rice. 6. Finish the line

Place the other side of the product over the zipper, pin it in place and baste.

Rice. 7. Pin the right side of the zipper

Starting at the bottom, sew a short horizontal stitch, then turn the piece 90 degrees and continue stitching the left side of the zipper. Sew the stitch at a distance of 0.6-0.7 cm from the center.

Rice. 10. Finished zipper

Now you know how to sew a zipper, share it with others on social networks! After all, knowledge is the only wealth that can be shared and nothing can be lost, but only gained!

For example, if it is a rare loose bouclé, voluminous lace, fabric with woven fibers, the ends of which stick out above the surface of the fabric. All this will be secured by a hidden zipper, because it is sewn close to the teeth.

In these cases, we sew in a regular zipper in an open or closed way. I will do a series of master classes on different ways to sew in a simple zipper.

Today we will sew a zipper into the skirt under the belt. This method is called “Zipper in the fold”. I still have a silk skirt from the 90s, which took part in the catwalk show at the Burda trading house on Pushechnaya. This is how they used to sew zippers into all products, because we didn’t have hidden zippers yet. Please note that the zipper on this skirt is longer than usual due to the large difference between the waist and hips. Otherwise you can't wear a skirt.

I show how to sew in a zipper on a small sample and on a smooth fabric so that the stitching is visible.

You will need:

- textile
- zipper 18−22 cm long. Remember, the greater the difference between your waist and hips, the longer the zipper.
- tailor's pins
- needle and thread for sewing
- tailor's scissors
- Kantenband strip - 0.5 m

Step 1. Choosing the right zipper


It can be either plastic or metal, it will not be visible, but the teeth of the metal zipper in this case should be small and narrow!

Firstly, a regular zipper has teeth on the same side as the zipper, unlike a hidden one.

Secondly, the zipper must have a stopper that fixes the lock in one place and prevents the zipper from spontaneously opening in the sock. This is especially true for tight pencil skirts.

Thirdly, the zipper should not be wide!

The stopper is the triangles on the bottom of the lock; they stand up when the lock is lowered into the zipper links and fix it in place.

Step 2


Iron the zipper from the bottom side, not along the teeth! Synthetic - dry iron, cotton - with steam. All zippers shrink slightly when ironed. Do not neglect this operation, otherwise after ironing the finished sewn-in zipper on the fabric, especially shiny and smooth fabric, ripples may appear along the zipper or the zipper may bend in an arc.

Step 3


To sew a zipper into a fold, allowances must be at least 2 cm! It is important.

Loose or stretchable fabrics need to be strengthened. To do this, glue the zipper allowances along the seam markings with strips of cantenband or any thin adhesive. For thick and non-stretchy fabrics, you can skip this step.

Step 4


Mark the zipper on the seam strictly under the metal stopper, otherwise it may get caught under the needle.

Baste the seam under the zipper.

After fitting, machine stitch the seam below the zipper, overcast the seam allowances separately.

Step 5


Iron the seam allowances below the zipper smoothly, and iron the left seam allowance under the zipper with a slight overlap to the right seam - up to 1 mm.

It is very important!

This influx will cover the stitching line of the zipper; it will be invisible in the finished product.

Step 6


Remove the basting in the seam; the photo shows that on the front side the left edge of the cut slightly overlaps the right.

Bend down the left edge of the slit on the front side of the skirt, and place a zipper under the right edge of the slit. The fold of the fabric should fit closely to the teeth of the zipper. Baste the right edge of the zipper 1 mm from the edge of the cut.

Step 7


Place the zipper foot so that the needle is at the far left of the foot.

Stitch the right edge of the zipper 1 mm from the fold with tacks at the beginning and end of the seam. The zipper does not need to be opened; the lock does not bother us.

This is what should happen.

Step 8


Cover the zipper with the left edge of the cut so that it overlaps the stitching by 1 mm. Pin the left edge over the stitching.

Step 9


From the inside of the skirt, baste the second half of the zipper close to the zipper; below, under the metal stopper, make a cross stitch so that when stitching from the face it does not fall on it.

Step 10


On the front side, mark an even line of stitching along the basting line.

Move the zipper foot so that the needle is at the far right of the zipper foot.

Unzip the zipper! Otherwise, the lock will prevent us from making an even stitch.
Sew along the markings to approximately the middle of the zipper.

Lower the machine needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot and carefully close the zipper!

Continue stitching with the zipper closed exactly according to the markings. At the end of the zipper, make a transverse fastener either at a right angle or obliquely, as you like.

This is what we got. The zipper is hidden in the fold, the lock is not visible.

View of the zipper open and from the inside out. On the inside there is a cross stitch below the metal zipper stop.

With this zipper treatment, the top of the skirt is treated with a belt.
Other ways to sew a zipper into a product follow the links:

with facing

Svetlana Khatskevich
Svetlana graduated from a university with a degree in Sewing Technological Engineer. She has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a senior teacher at the AcademyBurda." We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects with her love of sewing.

Sewing is creative, fun and educational. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!

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